LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



Chaj^LW Copyright No.. 
. Shell JsL.?A 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



LETTERS TO RUTH 



BY 



Mrs. LUCY BRONSON DUDLEY 

Author of " Flowers of the Field} -1 "Contribution to the Knowledge 

of the Termites.' 1 '' Translations from the German of Fritz 

Mailer and the French of Edmond About, etc. 




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NEW YORK 






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[THE LIBRARY 
OF COWGRESS 



WASHINGTON 



Copyright, 1806, 

by 

Lucy B. Dudley. 



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>?-|1&3t 



F. H. GILSON COMPANY 

"R'NTERS AND BOOKBINDERS 

BOSTON, U. S. A 



DEDICATION 



fflx&. Eutfj 2L ftannes^ronson 

FROM 

Mrs. Lucy Bronson Dudley 

December twelfth, 
1811, 1815, 1871, 1896. 



CONTENTS. 



Chapter One. —ENGLAND. 

June 22— On the Ocean, S.S. Etruria ... 11 

June 29 — Liverpool 12 

June 29 — On Top of an Omnibus in London . . 14 

June 30 — Yesper Service at Westminster Abbey . 15 

July 1 — London 18 

July 2 — London 21 

July 2— A Day at Kew Botanical Gardens . . 22 

July 3 — A Day at Southampton 24 

July 4 — A Day at Canterbury 26 

July 5— South Kensington Museum . . . .28 

July 6— Co vent Market Garden 30 

July 6 — Queen Victoria's Garden Party . . .31 

July 7— A Trip to Greenwich 34 

July 7— At the Town House of the Duke of West- 
minster 35 

July 8 — A Day at the Crystal Palace . . . 37 

July 9 — A Day at Crewe 39 

Chapter Two. — SCOTLAND, IRELAND, WALES, 
AND ENGLAND. 

July 10 — Scotland 42 

July 11 — Firth of Forth Bridge . . . .44 

July 12— Belfast and Dublin 46 

July 13 — Wales 49 

July 14 — Chester 49 

July 15 — A Day at Sheffield 51 

July 16 — Carlisle 53 

July 17 — Our Ancestral Castle 54 

July is— The Home of Shakespeare . . .55 
July 19 — London 57 

(5) 



6 CONTENTS. 

Chapter Three. —BELGIUM, GERMANY, AND 
AUSTRIA. 

July 19 — From London to Brussels. ... 59 

July 20— Brussels 60 

July 21 — Liege 63 

July 22 — Seraing and Cologne 65 

July 23 — The Steel AVorks of Krupp . . . 68 

July 24— Osnabruck 68 

July 25 — Hanover 69 

July 25 — The City of Berlin 70 

July 26 — Dresden 72 

July 27 — The Old and New City of Vienna . . 73 
July 29 — Vienna to Venice over the Soramering 

Pass 75 



Chapter Four. —ITALY. 

July 30— The Unique City 
July 31 — Rome Imperial . 
August 2 — Enchanting Pisa?! 
August 3 — Marvelous Milan 
August 3 — The Alps pierced 



Chapter Five. -THE REPUBLIC OF SWITZER- 
LAND. 

August 4— Lucerne and Brunig Pass . . .91 
August 6 — The Capital of Switzerland . . . 92 
August 7 — Geneva 94 

Chapter Six. — FRANCE. 

August 8— The Schneider Steel Works . . . 95 
August 9— The Capital City of the Republic of 

France 97 

August 10 — Paris 97 

Augusta — Notre Dame 99 

August 12 — Tour Eiffel 101 

August 13 — The Louvre 104 

A ugust 14— The Palais du Luxembourg . .106 
August 15 — The Extravagance of Louis XIV. . 109 

August 16 — Paris to Havre Ill 

August 25 — New York City 112 



IKTBODUCTION. 



These Letters were written by the author while trav- 
eling in Europe with her husband, a Delegate to the 
International Railway Congress which met in the Impe- 
rial Institute in London in July, 1895. After the meet- 
ing was adjourned, they made a tour on the continent, and 
the impressions are not now printed for the eye of the 
public, but for circulation among personal friends. 

However, should copies of this work drift beyond 

that circle, it is hoped the reader who is fond of nature 

as well as travel, may find some pleasure in perusing 

the pages. 

1 ° L. B.D. 

No. SO Pine St., New York. 



(7) 



My Dear Ruth, — 

It has been my habit for so many years, 
to write and mail a letter to yon every day, that it is 
easier to continue, even though you cannot receive them 
in the same way. 

They are written about what I see and think in 
passing, on my first trip abroad. Another time it 
misrht all be different. I have not had a Baedeker or 
any other guidebook in my hand, so that all you read 
is personal, in my own language, and without the 
convenience of quotations. 

The letters have been written for your pleasure, and 

with them you say you have traveled with me, sitting 

in comfort in your stone castle. 

Mizpah, 

Lucy. 
New York, June 7, 1896. 



(9) 



LETTERS TO RUTH. 



CHAPTER ONE. 
England. 

On the Ocean. 

June 22, 1895. 

The usual crowd on the dock to see the 
steamer sail away ; tables loaded with fruit and 
flowers ; the bell rings, the guests leave, and the 
passengers leave also. Liberty — the islands, 
the bridge, and finally the land disappear; and 
the night comes, the stars shine, Antares peeps 
through my port hole, and the ship steams 
through the w r eary waste of waters. Many 
enjoy it all, and others do not. One woman 
who had left her family, was so seasick that 
she could not even worry about them — what- 
ever that performance may be. There was ser- 
vice on Sunday, the usual concert through the 
week, until at last the steamer stopped at 
Queenstown in the night, and some passengers 
alighted, and delicious strawberries and fresh 
butter were on the table in the morning. 

(ID 



12 LETTERS TO BUTH. 

Liverpool. 

June 29, 1895. 

TTe arrived in Liverpool, after a sail on a 
sparkling sea from Queenstown. Those who 
drank champagne compared the ocean to that, 
and others spoke of Apollinaris. Passengers 
emerged from their chrysalis state and arrayed 
themselves in fine apparel, and one had to look 
twice to recognize the neighbors of a week. 
Lighthouses and buoys came and went. Hedges 
and hills were seen in the distance, and thor- 
oughly appreciated. 

The landing at Liverpool was at a stage, for 
the first time, and nearly all walked gladly 
down into a barn-like station ; and instantly 
there appeared banners, books, placards, and 
hat-bands, saying who and what they were, and 
many of them were busy. 

The luggage was lettered alphabetically, and 
we all swore we had no spirits, cigars, or per- 
fumery ; and then took the train for London, 
ordered in a lunch basket, and began our first 
ride in England. And what a garden of ver- 
dure, bloom, thrift, and finish it is — the land 
cultivated even to the tracks ; the hedges green, 
with some of the privet in bloom. The trees 
were small, and all showed the northwest wind. 



ENGLAND. 13 

Buttercups, foxglove, daisies, and elder were 
in full bloom. The old stone houses were often 
white-washed and looked very quaint. The sun 
set red and glowing, and then followed the long 
and strange twilight, lasting until ten o'clock — 
so different from the coming up and going down 
of the sun in the tropics at about six o'clock, 
with no hesitation, or Avhat we call twilight. 

The manufacturing towns through which we 
passed seemed to provide good houses, and nearly 
all looked thrifty. The streets were clean, and 
the English elm and sycamore outlined many of 
them in the distance. The moon was cut in 
half, straight up and down, as an English moon 
should be. The Scorpion trailed its length in 
the south, Antares sparkled, and Venus shone 
in the west. After the six days' sea trip, I 
thought it very good, and leaned out of our first 
class compartment to enjoy the beauty of the 
scene. At one of the stations I bought some 
strawberries ; and the boy who sold them to me 
thought I must have studied the English lan- 
guage very hard, to speak it so well, when my 
home was in New York. We reached London 
at midnight, and the unpleasant experiences of 
the sea were forgotten in the first good, quiet, 
and dreamless sleep of a week. . 



14 LETTERS TO BUTH. 

On Top of an Omnibus in London. 

We started for any place, and found many of 
them. The majority of the houses in London 
are three and four stories, and the bricks are 
dark colored. It impresses one as a city of 
homes. We passed Hyde Park, Green Park ; 
and the house of Baroness Burdett-Coutts, with 
its swell front, suggested some of those on 
Beacon St. in Boston. Ducal palaces look old 
and exclusive, as they are. Buckingham Pal- 
ace, the town residence of the Queen, has its hot- 
houses, stables, and in its private grounds the 
central arch through which she only cari ride. 

She is housed like a queen of the termites ; 
her swarm of subjects feed, clothe, and take care 
of her, and the children receive the same treat- 
ment from other nations of the earth. 

The parks are all in their prime ; oaks, syca- 
mores, and elms are common, but maples are rare, 
and also horse-chestnuts. Laburnums and elders 
were in bloom, and the American woodbine 
climbed luxuriously over many houses. Win- 
dow gardening is common and tasteful — red 
flowers and light foliage on one, lobelia and 
pink pelargoniums on another, and others with 
a variety. We rode past the Bank of England, 



ENGLAND. 15 

Trafalgar Square, Houses of Parliament, West- 
minster Abbey, St. Paul's Cathedral ; crossed 
London Bridge ; saw the Tower and new Tower 
Bridge ; rode out to Hollo way ; passed churches, 
many of them in yards gay Avith flowers, hos- 
pitals of all kinds, with this legend, " Supported 
by voluntary contributions ;" crossed canals, 
notably the Regent ; and passed many small 
parks. Every thing and person looked thrifty 
and contented, and I could not realize the desti- 
tution about which we read. 



Vesper Service at Westminster Abbey. 

June 30, 1895. 
The weather is pleasant, temperature about 
70°Fahr. We went early, and were seated so 
near the pulpit that I could touch it. The al- 
tar was trimmed with white flowers — Third 
Sunday after Trinity — and these words were 
around it, " The knowledge of the kingdom of 
this world is the knowledge of our Lord Jesus 
Christ." The Abbey was full of people seated, 
and many stood during the service and ser- 
mon. The choristers do not come in singing a 
processional, and the evening service is read, 



16 LETTERS TO RUTH. 

the people repeating after each sentence. The 
psalter and chants are sung so well and so eas- 
ily, that it is as rapid as talking. The organist 
played the airs, first with one hand and foot, 
then with the other, and with different stops, so 
that the effect was pleasing and expectant. 

The lessons were read in such a manner 
that it seemed to me that I heard for the first 
time the story of Samuel being called, and his 
running to Eli. It is a sfreat irift to be such a 
reader, for one must be able to feel to express 
so much. 

The sermon by Canon Wilberforce was excel- 
lent; and so far away from theology, on the 
road to humanity, that the former seemed of no 
consequence at all, even as a ground work. 
The text was from Malachi, first chapter, sixth 
verse, — the substance being that man is the 
honor of God. The first startling sentence 
was that man was the son of God. Compare 
that with the doctrine of hell being paved with 
infants, etc. ; and as he said, " man was either 
driven to infidelity or insanity. Through all 
ages there has been one idea of the Supreme. 
The ancients had Zeus, Thor, Jupiter, and 
others. From this dim instinct, we have come 



ENGLAND. 17 

now to the radiant certainty of being the sons of 
God. His care of us was educated, and circum- 
stances are his second causes. We owe recog- 
nition to our Father in eyery act of our lives, and 
then they are progressive, ascending, and as- 
piring." 

" The universal soul of man is the differen- 
tiated soul in man. Old conceptions are crumb- 
ling away, and an idea of eternal strength is 
around. The greatest strides are made by en- 
thusiasts, who should be like those of a Hindoo 
legend, where the humanity of one was such 
that he burst out of Heaven to win souls that 
might be lost, if he remained at ease in glory." 

"Then the first lesson was alluded to in the 
sermon by hearing the voice. Samuel had to 
be called three times before he knew that it was 
the Lord who had called to him. When we are 
called we should say, Speak, Lord, for thy ser- 
vant heareth." 

* 'That was illustrated by the grub of the dra- 
gon fly, inactive, closed, and dull. But when its 
bonds were burst it swept into the sunlight, with 
bright wings, and alive to all of the influences 
of sun and air. Love is creation's final law." 



18 LETTERS TO RUTH. 

" Speak to us, Lord, 

At break of day, 

At noonday, 

And in our 

Listening ear 

At shades of night. 1 ' etc. 

The anthem and prayers came after the ser- 
mon ; and the organist played while the large 
audience dispersed, though many lingered to 
look at the memorials and beauties of this 
national monument. 

The grass around the Abbey is full of low 
white daisies ; and with St. Margaret's Chapel, 
it is a most attractive place. 

From here we went to St. Paul's Cathedral — 
just as interesting, but entirely different. The 
dome gives a feeling of height, and the apos- 
tles and prophets look down upon the struggling 
humanity in a figurative way. 



London. 

July 1, 1895. 

I took a ride past Hyde Park and other not- 
able places, to the Imperial Institute, where the 
International Railway Congress was in session ; 
and then went into the Kensington Museum, 
where the rooms of the Indian, Persian, Japan- 



ENGLAND. 19 

ese and Chinese exhibits are in large quanti- 
ties and well arranged. Some of the rugs, 
notably a sacred one, were rich and large. 
Those heathen, as we consider them, are never 
afraid or ashamed to fall upon their knees or 
faces at prayer time, wherever they may be. 
Fancy any of our business men in offices, or on 
the street, kneeling down at stated times, like 
the Angelus, or call to prayer from a steeple of 
a mosque or church. And yet we profess and 
call ourselves Christians. 

The biological, chemical, and economical 
sections in the museum were interesting: and 
instructive, and even those who could only 
walk along could learn much. 

From here it is only a short distance to the 
Albert Memorial in Hyde Park, on the route en 
roi. This is very gay and elaborate ; but the 
building of Memorial Hall is large and useful. 
It now began to rain suddenly, as it seems to 
do here, and I took an omnibus and rode 
along the Piccadilly and Strand to St. Paul's 
Cathedral, and then back to the Bank, and 
alighted as the sun was shining. After a cup 
of tea, with rolls and strawberries, I went 
to the British Museum, which is of Grecian 



20 LETTERS TO BUTH. 

architecture and black with age, but full of 
everything under the sun, and of course from 
all countries, — arrow heads, pottery, china, 
glass, statuary, illuminated books, armor, lace, 
tapestries, etc., and a room for readers. The 
time and money it must have taken to collect 
and arrange and vouch for all these exhibits 
is appalling in thought, when life is so short. 
It must be enthusiasm, or a desire to leave a 
name that inspires so much labor. 

The ride along Oxford St, Mary le bone, etc., 
was very pleasant. Old churches appear, al- 
ways with the name so that those who ride by 
can read. Large and small parks with trees, 
shrubs, and flowers, and seats where nurses can 
sit while the children play, are passed ; and even 
though I know there is no place like the United 
States of America, no flag like the stars and 
stripes, yet England is a garden, and London a 
desirable city. It was our mother, who tried to 
spank us in the last century ; but the new version 
had even then commenced, for parents to obey 
their children, and she did not succeed. I do not 
see any statues of any of the generals who fought 
against us in the war of the Revolution, for as 
you are a member of the Daughters of the 



ENGLAND. 21 

American Revolution on one side, and I am a 
charter member on the other, I looked for them ; 
but there are many of those who were victorious 
over other nations, notably Nelson, Havelock, 
and Wellington. 



London. 

July 2, 1895. 

I took my first ride on the underground, or 
depressed as it is physically and mentally ; and 
for all things desirable in a ride it is not to be 
compared to our elevated railroads. 

I alighted at South Kensington, and then took 
a carriage, which carried me past a house in Pic- 
cadilly, near Hyde Park entrance, said to have 
been sold for fifty thousand pounds. That gives 
an idea of the value of property in that vicinity. 
I alighted at the National Gallery of Paintings, 
and saw the large collection of ancients and 
moderns, from all countries. 

The artists of the Christian era are under as 
much obligation to the life of Christ as the poets 
are to the flowers. His sacred body and holy 
character are represented in every stage of his 
life, and every recorded act. This is a tribute 
to Christianity, in many instances unintentional. 



22 LETTERS TO RUTH. 

Two notable historical paintings are impressed 
upon my memory — King James hearing the 
news of the landing of William of Orange, and 
the kneeling of the family of Darius before 
Alexander. 

The pictures of Turner suggested to me the 
line of the " few lurid mornings," and it seems 
strange that Ruskin was so impressed with 
them. 

It is curious that nature, to be properly pre- 
sented, must be painted or engraved as it is 
not. The long sweep of limb and tail, which 
gives the impression of action in a horse, for 
instance, has never been seen in an actual in- 
stantaneous photograph. Art can only show 
nature as it seems, and not as it is. 



A Day at Kew Botanical Gardens. 

July 2, 1895. 
At London Bridge I took a boat on the 
Thames for Kew, and there is much to see in an 
easy trip. We passed the Obelisk, Houses of 
Parliament, Somerset House, and an ideal view 
of St. Paul's Cathedral. The stone wall and 
bridges are fine examples of engineering work. 
The Victoria is the most attractive. Lar^e 



ENGLAND. 23 

hotels are being built, and the whole view is 
varied and interesting. We changed boats at 
Chelsea and went under Putney Bridge, and 
after landing walked into the gardens, as into a 
paradise of foliage and bloom. 

The walks and trees, the shrubs and flowers, 
so many in full bloom — the orchids, the cacti, 
the ferns, palms, and bananas, — I had seen 
these in their native air and humidity of 
the tropics, where the heat glowed, and their 
branches waved, and the heavy fragrance was 
like another world. The water lilies, the 
largest Victoria Ees;ia, were not in full bloom 
but here and there. The old palace by the lake 
stood, though its inmates had long ago passed 
out of its portals forever. 

Fancy all the trees and shrubs and walks and 
flowers that ever you have seen, that are beauti- 
ful, and you can name them the Kew Botanical 
Gardens. 

Beside these, there was a room devoted to 
wood specimens, violin cases, chairs, tables 
and carvings, baskets and cross sections, to 
show the grain and capabilities of the forests. 

I came back to London by train, and at first 
had a compartment alone. It looked like an om- 



24 LETTEBS TO BUTH. 

nibus, and the window in the door raised and 
lowered as in a carriage. For a few stations 
I had five schoolboys, and they put out their 
heads and yelled as they rode along, presum- 
ably just for fun. After they left, two Salva- 
tion Army women came in, one young and deli- 
cate, and the other not. Curiously enough, at 
the next station, two Sisters of Charity entered ; 
and these di fie rent sorts of theology sat oppos- 
ite each other, without a glance of recognition ; 
and yet they were devoting their lives to 
humanity, according to their light. 



A Day in Southhampton. 

July 3, 1895. 

We took the special train at Waterloo 
station, across the bridge of that name, and 
passed through gardens and villages. The elm 
trees are tall and bushy at the top, with short 
branches along the trunk. Fields of barley, 
oats, and hops are green, and there is no doubt 
but what the beer crop is assured. Poppies, 
cornflowers, pinks, bluebells, buttercups, fox- 
gloves, are in full bloom in the fields and 
along the railroad embankment. As the train 
was special, we did not stop until we reached 



ENGLAND. 25 

Southampton, where we went on board the 
little steamer Columbia. The sail along the 
Solent was delightful, views of fine residences, 
lawns, and large trees, follow each other ; and we 
passed a large hospital. Quite to our delight, we 
saw our cruiser Columbia on her way back from 
the opening of the Kiel canal, and the band 
graciously played Yankee Doodle, and the flags 
saluted. To add even to this international 
scene, we met the steamship St. Louis on her 
second voyage, and I asked the band to play 
either " Hail, Columbia," or the " Star Spangled 
Banner," and they played both, while flags 
saluted, handkerchiefs waved, and heads were 
uncovered . 

Our route was passed Cowes, where the 
races and regattas will be lively and exciting in 
a few days. 

The grounds around Osborne castle slope to 
the water, and the large gray stone building, 
with its two towers, is in plain view as we sail 
along ; and we did not wonder that it was one 
of the favorite homes of Queen Victoria. 

Upon landing, we visited the largest Graving 
dock in the world, just completed, and ready to 
be formally opened by the Prince of Wales. 



26 LETTERS TO RUTH. 

The gentlemen in charge gave us its history and 
statistics, and the directors feel a pardonable 
pride in its successful and rapid construction. 

We were entertained at dinner, the presid- 
ing official, in good old fashion, saying grace, 
''For what we are about to receive, thank God." 
After dinner speeches were in several languages 
from the different delegates ; and though the 
words were not all understood, the courtesy and 
mental gifts were appreciated. I would go 
quite out of my way to kick the Tower of 
Babel for interfering so much with the free 
intercourse of congenial minds. 



A Day at Canterbury. 

July 4, 1895. 

We left Victoria station and rode through the 
County of Kent where arms were granted in 
1604 to my sixth great grandfather, Sir William 
Southmayd. There were large trees, prin- 
cipally elm, oak, poplar, linden, horse-chest- 
nuts, and but few evergreens. The white sheep 
and Alderney cows must have enjoyed their rich 
pasture. On this road there are three tunnels, 
one of them near the Crystal Palace. We passed 
through Rochester. The large ruined castle on 



ENGLAND. 21 

a hill is near the cathedral. In this section there 
are thatched cottages and several small and old 
looking churches. 

Everything of that kind, however, sinks into 
insignificance by the side of the cathedral at 
Canterbury — so large, so rich, so venerable, 
so historical, so beautiful, so quaint, so well re- 
paired as to choir and altar, so ruinous in pillars 
and cloisters, so full of monuments, and so 
bright in stained glass. I shall never see a more 
impressive building, made immortal by Becket's 
murder, if in no other way. 

By the greatest good fortune, we entered the 
choir as the processional came in for the vesper 
service ; and the boys and men sung the chants 
and psalter — one of them being the Twenty- 
Third Psalm — in a very tuneful manner. The 
prayers for the Queen and Royal family came 
after the anthem ; and then they all walked 
slowly down the aisle and wound around to the 
robing room, while the organ played softly and 
melodiously. A most lovely and restful scene, 
a charming place. And yet to live there would 
seem to be stifling to the progress that we should 
make in these years of invention and science. 
What has been in the past is a useful experience, 



28 LETTEBS TO BUTH. 

but life now is more active. On our way back, 
we had a lunch basket come into our compart- 
ment ; and for the benefit of those who read 
this, it contained roast chicken, boiled ham, let- 
tuce, bread and rolls, cheese, and a bottle of 
claret. It never seems to dawn upon any one 
here that there is anything to drink except some- 
thing spirituous, only at five o'clock tea. 



South Kensington Museum. 

July 5, 1895. 

This is a lar^e and elegant stone building 
with a yard and shrubbery, free to the public; 
and canes and umbrellas do not have to be 
checked. 

The first attraction is a seated statue of 
Charles Darwin, with his overhanging forehead 
full of brains, that have turned over many of 
the old opinions, and started new and open 
fields of research. 

The specimens of quartz were of all colors. 
The illustrations of the coal measures clearly 
defined sigillaria, stigmaria, etc. Large blocks 
of meteoric iron showed that it was possible for 
that to have been used by Tubal Cain. The 
casts and skeletons of great whales and saurian 



ENGLAND. 29 

reptiles were numerous, and also the bones and 
skeletons of prehistoric man. 

The botanical section had fine specimens of 
cross sections of woods, colored plates and de- 
scriptions, and herbariums for students. 

The birds and their nests and surroundings 
made a beautiful exhibit, and the e^s were in 
drawers which could be opened and examined 
by any one. 

The Lepidoptera were all beautiful, and their 
life history was exhibited. In a room by them- 
selves there were monkeys and apes of all sizes, 
colors, and kinds — some of them looking dis- 
agreeably like mankind. 

The different rooms are well filled with vis- 
itors, and teachers brought their pupils. Little 
boys and girls came together and behaved well 
in this building which ^ives them all such a great 
opportunity to study natural history. On our 
way home, we went into Hyde Park, at the height 
of the society parade ; and it was gay and bright 
with horses, carriages, and elegantly attired 
women and their attendants. 



30 LETTERS TO RUTH. 

Co vent Market Garden. 

July £, 1895. 

This is so far the only place open early in the 
morning, and it is full and lively ; meats and 
vegetables enough for the great city, — no one 
ought to iro hungry. The flowers are now at 
their height of bloom in fields and. greenhouses, 
and there were wagon loads of solid masses 
of stocks, daisies, lilies, ferns, etc., besides 
branches of trees, bundles of grasses, bouquets 
of mignonette, coleus, and all the standards in 
the greatest profusion. 

From here I went to the historical Tower, 
situated down, as so many of the buildings are, 
instead of on an elevation, as would have 
seemed more imposing. This grim, gray build- 
ing stands on the Thames, surrounded by a yard 
and fence, and looks as if even now it was full of 
sighs, groans, and tears. One room contains 
seven headless prisoners, and it is a welcome 
thought, that the day has passed when people 
can be imprisoned for opinion, or to change a 
line of descent. 



ENGLAND. 31 

Queen Victoria s Garden Party. 

Queen Victoria and the Prince of Wales 
evidently see the importance of the railroads ; 
for the latter opened the sessions of the Inter- 
national Congress, and the former invited the 
delegates to Windsor Castle. 

The day was warm and pleasant, July sixth, 
and we went by special train. We entered the 
grounds and walked upon the north terrace, 
overlooking the plains below, with the river, 
upon which the boat clubs were exercising. 
The side hill was covered with large trees and 
shrubbery, and the view was enchanting. 

We walked into the State Apartments, full of 
history, furniture, and paintings. The Water- 
loo room is where the Queen listens to her 
ordered concerts and operas. The throne room 
had the chair of carved ivory. I do not know 
if the stone about which I have read was in the 
seat or not. The Reubens' room was covered 
with his pictures, and the frescoes were fine ; 
and in one room the walls were hunsr with 
red figured silk. 

St. George's Chapel was open for vesper ser- 
vice, and the choir sings very well, and one boy 
had a tuneful solo. The Memorial Chapel of the 



32 LETTEBS TO RUTH. 

Prince Consort and Dukes of Albany and Clar- 
ence adjoined. Statues were on the two first, 
and the walls were covered with bas reliefs, 
and there were windows of descriptive stained 
glass. 

We went into the Orangery, where delicious 
refreshments were served on tables with bou- 
quets, by attentive waiters, — sandwiches, cakes, 
grapes, gooseberries, strawberries, cherry ice, 
orangeade, lemonade, claret cup, tea and coffee. 

The east terrace is most beautiful with flower 
beds and a fine view. A statue of a little dog 
belonging to Queen Victoria had its name 
Dacko carved on the base, and the date of its 
birth and death. In the garden below were two 
bands that played alternately ; and out of courte- 
sy to the nationalities of the members of the 
Congress, all their national airs were played. 
Every one remarked that it was a charming 
scene, with the expectant pleasure of a view of 
the Queen. She had invited them and pro- 
vided this entertainment, in acknowledgment 
of the railroad men, who had helped to increase 
commerce and make all the world neighbors. 

Therefore, these accidents of brains stood with 
uncovered heads before the accidents of birth, 



ENGLAND. 33 

that came to them in carriages. The gentle- 
men in charge were evidently titled officers. 
They wore scarlet coats with the ridiculously 
short skirt, and silk hats. The outriders were 
well mounted, and preceded by a little boy on 
horseback. The horse entered so lively into the 
occasion that he was banished. 

As soon as the carriage with the Queen, Prince 
of Wales, and Princess Beatrice stopped, two 
men rushed to the bridles and held the horses. 
The Prince of Wales dismounted ; and as the 
delegates were presented to him by name, he 
shook hands cordially and introduced them to the 
Queen, who bowed graciously. She was plainly 
gowned in black, with pearl colored kids, and 
held a black parasol with white border. She is 
a good looking, elderly woman, with no trace of 
physical suffering. The Princess Beatrice, who 
seems to be the Queen's right hand man, so to 
speak, was gaily gowned. Her face is long, and 
she has a pleasant smile, and bowed courteously 
to the hundreds who were standing and gazing 
with delighted eyes and thankful hearts for all of 
this entertainment. 

After the presentations, the carriage drove 
along slowly, and the guests dispersed. In try- 



34 LETTERS TO BUTH. 

ing to pass a closed gate, to goto the railroad sta- 
tion, the keeper asked us to wait until the Queen 
had driven out of sight. " There she goes, 
God bless her," said he, with genuine feeling. 
The Prince of Wales is a fine looking gentle- 
man, with graceful carriage and a dignified 
manner. His special train was in the station, 
and he walked from his carriage on a red carpet 
that had his feathers for a figure, raising his hat 
and bowing in response to all who were waiting 
for their special train. 



A Trip to Greenwich. 

July 7, 1895. 

We took a boat at Waterloo Bridge, and 

passed Somerset House, the Obelisk, and had 

several fine views of St. Paul's dome. We 

passed the Tower, and then under the Tower 

Bridge, the last one towards the sea. The draw 

raises up, and the foot way is high. The 

wharves look all the years that have passed. 

Near the landing at Greenwich are the Royal 

Naval College and Hospital. The park has 

trees, but no flower beds ; and sheep run around. 

The observatory is of brick, and on a hill one 

hundred and fiftv-four feet above tide water at the 



ENGLAND. 35 

Thames, and one hundred and fifty-five feet 
above Liverpool. We set our watches by the 
Greenwich clock and came back by train on the 
old King Cross road, until we struck the new 
road. 



At the Town House of the Duke of West- 
minster. 

July 7, 1895. 

The appreciation of the importance of this 
Railway Congress was shown by the invitations 
which the members received. As these letters 
are my own experience, I only write what I at- 
tended, and hope to read about what others saw. 
The palace of the Duke of Westminster is near 
Hyde Park. It is buff colored, of brick, about 
three stories high, and with many pillars. The 
hall is square ; and in that we were handed cat- 
alogues, and No. 1. picture commenced in the 
large dining room to the left, as we entered. 
This could be made cosy by screens. The walls 
were hung with tine examples of Reubens, Cuyp, 
Rembrandt, etc. The floor is inlaid, and had a 
large rug. The chairs were leather covered, arid 
around the tables and stands were small glass 
bowls with a single flower — mostly roses — of 
all their colors. I noticed this decoration ; for 



36 LETTERS TO RUTH. 

when I was in Colon, on the Isthmus of Panama, 
I would take the pretty shells of Echinus, and 
place them around my table in the large sitting 
room, and in the holes provided by nature put 
in a single flower, — sometimes oleanders, 
lemon and orange blossoms, jasmine, convol- 
vulus, and the brilliant heliconia. 

From the dining room we entered the salon, 
which had a view of the garden, with large 
trees, conventional flower beds, and fountains. 
The furniture was covered with cretonne, and 
on the mantel was a clock that had the pendu- 
lum of diamonds or brilliants moving around 
the dial. In this room were Reuben's many 
Madonnas and Holy Families. 

The drawing room adjoined, the wood work 
of mahogany, with gilt moulding ; the floor was 
inlaid and covered with rugs. The flowers in 
the vases were very large carnations, and on a 
table was a portrait of the late Emperor Fred- 
erick, presented to the Duke by the Empress. 
One of Gainsborough's pictures was hung 
here in a good light — a lad clad in blue. The 
catalogue said it was painted to show that the 
blue color could be artistically used, and the pic- 
ture was noticeably attractive. There were 
many home scenes, landscapes, and cattle. 



ENGLAND. 3t 

The private theatre was furnished in red, and 
had a stage with footlights, and would easily seat 
a hundred persons. Even here there w T ere works 
of art ; and it seems better in a private house to 
have the paintings so distributed, instead of 
being in a gallery, although the light cannot 
always be as good. In the corridor were genre 
pictures, suggesting the phases of life and ori- 
entalism seen in the Midway during the Colum- 
bian Exposition. Lastly, in the ante drawing 
room, was a life size portait of the Duchess of 
Westminster, painted by Millais. She is a 
beautiful woman, robed in black lace, against a 
background of oak color, which gave the por- 
trait prominence. 

We walked from there to the marble arch in 
Hyde Park, through the throng, and then rode 
to our hotel. 



A Day at the Crystal Palace. 

July <§, 1895. 

We left London from the Victoria Station by 
special train, and entered the Palace of Glass as 
guests of the city. It is full of curiosities of all 
kinds — live and dead — parrots, plants, stat- 
uary, refreshments, things to sell, rooms of 
different architecture, notably Egyptian and 



38 LETTERS TO RUTH. 

Pompeian. There was an outdoor concert by a 
band, and afterward an indoor organ recital. 
Many people, and evidently inmates of institu- 
tions, were enjoying the curiosities and beauties 
of the place. The view was extensive, houses, 
trees, and meadows were scon in the distance. 
In the foreground were fountains, flower beds, 
and walks. 

The dinner given to the delegates in the 
palace was very good, and attended by over a 
thousand persons. During the repast the band 
played ; and among the pieces were national 
airs, which were cheered firstly by those who 
recognized them, and then by all the rest, as a 
matter of courtesy. After attending to the 
drinking of the health of the Queen and Prince 
of Wales, speeches were made by the different 
delegates — the waiters using this time to pass 
tumblers to collect money from those they had 
been hired to attend. 

We then adjourned to seats, prepared under 
cover in the second story for us, to see the fire- 
works, which had been advertised for the occa- 
sion. They were all brilliant, and crowds of 
people in the grounds enjoyed their exceptional 
beauty. The set pieces of Stephenson with a 



ENGLAND. 39 

train, the colored words that "England greeted 
the International Railway Congress," with the 
Rocket and a modern locomotive, were elabo- 
rate, expressive, and brilliant, cheered and 
appreciated by all. There was also a comical 
little affair of a man shoeing a horse, pounding 
the hot iron, while the animal moved his head 
and tail. The exhibition closed by illuminating 
all of the fountains in a most brilliant way : and 
the entertainment was ended by landing all in 
London, by the light of a full, red looking 
moon. 



A Day at Crewe. 

July 9, 1895. 

\Te left Euston Square Station at 7.15, and 
had a two seated first class compartment to our- 
selves. We passed through Rugby; and along 
the route were castles, cathedrals, and some 
very small stone churches, only large enough to 
seat an ordinary family. 

The crops of hay, oats, and barley look well, 
and also the vegetables. The roadside is bril- 
liant with clovers, linaria, epilobium, foxglove, 
daisies, and pinks. The large elms, with some 
evergreens, birches, horse-chestnuts, and elder 



40 LETTEBS TO BUT II. 

in bloom, were in rows usually, though some 
were in clumps. The hedges were green, and 
the view as attractive as possible. A canal 
wound its way along ; the boats are narrow, and 
seemed to be loaded with coal. We arrived at 
Crewe about 11 A.M, and took a carriage for 
the office of the L. and N. W. Rj^., to visit their 
steel works. This is the only road that makes 
its own rails and rolling stock. 

The mills were in excellent order ; the floors 
of stone, and presumably swept every day. 
Their converters hold about six tons, and they 
blow about twenty minutes ; then the molten 
metal flows into the ladle, and from that is dis- 
tributed to the iron ingot moulds. These are 
reheated, and rolled into their ninety pound 
sixty foot rails, taking eighteen passes — five'in 
the blooming, and the rest in the shaping and 
finishing. We walked through the works and 
saw the rails for turn tables, tires for wheels, 
and also their manner of hot riveting their 
boilers. They have a reading room and library* 
and their workmen looked thrifty and contented. 

We went to the station on their special en- 
gine, and at Rugby had a lunch basket come in- 
to our compartment. A boy walked along the 



ENGLAND. 41 

platform with a tray of teacups ; and I took 
one and left it in the car, to return with the lunch 
basket. We reached Euston Station about 
seven o'clock, perfectly right, for Greenwich 
announced that the sun would rise to-day at 
3.55, and set at 8.44. The days are very long 
here, and the temperature is about 80°. 



42 LETTERS TO RUTH. 

CHAPTER TWO. 
Scotland, Ireland, Wales and England. 

July 10, 1S95. 

Great Northern, North Eastern, and North British 
Railways. The East Coast Express Route, between 
England, and Scotland. Special Train for Members of 
the International Railway Congress. 

This announcement is on the handsome souv- 
enir books prepared for the guests, and thorough- 
ly appreciated by them. We left Kings Cross 
Station at 9.55, and rode through an historical 
part of this country. The day was pleasant ; 
and wild flowers were in full bloom, and in great 
profusion. There were lunch and fruit provided, 
and the trip was royal, a suitable adjective in 
England. We passed ruins and cathedrals, and 
at York we could see the castle and noted 
cathedral and the old stone wall. Here we were 
entertained at luncheon under a large marquee, 
near the station. As it had probably been an- 
nounced, people had assembled to see us pass, 
and we were evidently objects of interest to them. 
The delegates from all nations were fine look- 
ins: ; and with the address which a srood educa- 
te ' «-^ 

tion gives, they made a favorable impression. 
After leaving Newcastle, the scenery changed, 



SCOTLAND. 43 

and we had some hills and views of the sea. The 
same thrift continued, and the farms were in 
perfect order. The cottages were of stone, and 
very small, but with a comfortable appearance. 
The sheep and cattle were all in good condition. 
Women work in the fields, and the children pick 
out weeds among the potatoes. The pink 
heather was in bloom, and in some places there 
were forests with a profusion of royal ferns. 
We arrived in Edinburgh about 6 P.M., and 
had dinner in the hotel at the foot of Nelson's 
Monument. After that we took a carriage, and 
drove around about five miles. So far in our 
travels, it is the most attractive place. 

Many of the houses are of stone, and very 
picturesque and handsome, with yards and 
trees, among them a large auracaria. We saw 
a game of ball on the ground, being played by 
elderly men. Arthur's Seat is always conspic- 
uous, and so is Scott's Monument. Prince St. is 
a striking thoroughfare, with the shops on one 
side, and the towering crag and historic palace 
with walls on the other side. At nine o'clock 
it was so light I could see to read without arti- 
ficial light. 



44 LETTERS TO RUTH. 

Firth of Forth Bridge. 

July 11, 1895. 

The next morning we took a carriage, and 
drove past Holyrood, the Castle, and saw many 
of the places Walter Scott has immortalized, even 
the church on the hillside, the last place vis- 
ited and seen by those who went to sea. The 
houses once occupied by the nobility are now in- 
habited by the slums. The house of John Knox 
projects aggressively in the street ; and his grave 
is pointed out, as is also the stone heart of Jennie 
Dean, and the three stones where public hang- 
ings occurred. An agreeable si^ht in contrast 
to these is the library building, presented by a 
Scotch- American, " to give light to all." 

At breakfast, in the hotel, there was a party 
personally conducted, of all ages and both sexes, 
so well pleased that they gave a vote of thanks 
to the landlord. He was flying the American 
flag, and there is no finer sight in all the world ; 
and it seemed good to hear these people using 
the English language, as it is generally among 
the educated people in the United States. There 
are two kinds of ordinary folks in the British 
Isles, of whom one may ask incidentally any 
questions. The answer is either, "I dunno," 
or not understood. 



SCOTLAND. 45 

While waiting at the station in Edinburgh, 
we saw the women who sell the fish caught by 
their husbands. They walked almost in a pro- 
cession, with full baskets of all kinds of fish on 
their backs, and leather bands across their fore- 
heads ; and their burden was such, that they had 
to lean forward at an angle of about twenty de- 
grees. They looked contented, and talked and 
laughed with each other. I was told that the 
young ladies in this social state were not con- 
sidered eligible for marriage, until they could 
carry a full basket offish. What a desideratum 
a husband must be under those circumstances ! 

We left the city by special train, for the Firth 
of Forth Bridge. The gentlemen walked over ; 
the ladies remained in the train, and stopped 
at the other side, then walked down to a boat ; 
and all rode under the great bridge, to see 
its strength and beauty. It is the largest one 
of the kind in the world, and an honor to its 
engineers and the workmen. We returned to 
Edinburgh, a city of itself in its peculiar beauty 
and history ; and one of the residents told me 
it had two special industries — " whiskey and 
education." 

The ride from Edinburgh to Glasgow is pleas- 



46 LETTEBS TO BUTH. 

ant, as seen from car windows ; and some of it is 
celebrated in verse, especially around Ayr. 

Glasgow has a substantial look ; and from here 
we took another train for Stranraer, to cross to 
Ireland. This channel was rough, and the poor 
third class passengers must have been drenched 
by rain and waves. The sun sunk into the ocean 
about 8.30 ; dark at 9.55. The landing is at 
Larue, and the train is ready for Belfast. 



Belfast and Dublin. 

July 12, 1895. 

Our first night in Ireland was quiet. The 
room had a high post bedstead and a valance, 
an article I had not seen since my grandmother's 
day. The next morning, the memorable twelfth 
of July, was lively. We rode first to the 
Botanical Gardens, which have beautiful flower 
beds. The trees and shrubs are not labeled ; 
and it is more like a park, and evidently so con- 
sidered by the people, for it is a thoroughfare. 
We passed a Presbyterian college and church, 
a Methodist church, and a Moravian. This sug- 
gested Bethlehem, Penn., so much, that I wrote 
a post card to that place — the American head- 



IBELAND. 47 

quarters of that missionary theology. We 
passed paper mills and numerous linen stores. 

The streets were filling fast with people ; and 
in a way, it was a sort of "Fourth" on the twelfth 
of July. There were processions, bands, flags, 
and thousands of people, nearly all wearing a 
touch of orange color, and all orderly and en- 
thusiastic. We took a jaunting car to ride to 
the station, and liked it. Upon asking the driver 
how much it would be, he replied, " we wont 
quarrel ;" leaving the pay to our judgment or 
generosity. We left Belfast on a special train, 
and had a pleasant ride to Dublin. We passed 
acres of bleaching grounds ; and could see why 
Irish linen was so desirable, being whitened in 
the sunshine, instead of by chemicals. 

At Dublin we were all entertained at lunch by 
the railroad, and were graciously received by 
ladies in handsome gowns. The ride from here 
to Cork was a revelation, and I can see why so 
many Irish have transplanted themselves and all 
their people to the United States. The soil is 
poor, some grass and peat beds, very few pota- 
toes, not much grain, a few cows and sheep. 
The huts of stone and mud — they cannot be 
called houses by any stretch of language — were 



48 LETTERS TO RUTH. 

so low, that it looked as if an ordinary man 
could onty stand upright in the center. One 
door, and two or three windows, were all that 
allowed ingress or light. I do not see how they 
have lived here, from my standpoint of Amer- 
ica, its good farm houses, rich soil, vegeta- 
bles, and fruits. 

So far in our travels, I have not seen an 
apple, pear, peach, or plum orchard. There 
have been many cherry trees, and strawberries 
are large and delicious. And I have not seen 
schoolhouses, here and there, as we ride along, 
in comparison to those we have every few 
miles at home, on any railroad in the northern 
and western and middle states. We passed 
Blarney Castle, but did not stop to kiss the 
stone. It does not seem necessary to do that 
any more. 

We had five o'clock tea at a railroad station ; 
and the delegates issued from their compart- 
ments, and talked together, as well as the 
unpleasantness of the Tower of Babel allowed. 
It was a delightful and refreshing courtesy, 
on the part of the officials of the railroads. 
We reached Cork in due time ; and I am writ- 
ing this at nine o'clock, by daylight. 



WALES. 49 

Wales. 

July 13, 1895. 

The rest of the party left the next morning 
for a coaching trip in Killarney, and pass Sun- 
day at the lakes ; but we returned to Dublin, 
and crossed to Holyhead. The ride from there 
to Chester is entrancing, Welsh crags and hills 
on one side, excellent sea beaches on the other, 
with many little wagons for the convenience of 
bathers. The ruins are numerous, one where 
the first Prince of Wales was born, and another 
by the side of the railway ; and a large bridge 
near it was so constructed as to harmonize with 
it — an instructive sight — bringing together the 
centuries that were far apart. We also passed 
a bridge built by Stephenson, and saw rolling 
mills, blast furnaces in full heat, and coal being 
mined. Handsome houses, and rows of good 
homes for working men, made up a varied and 
attractive ride. 



Chester. 

July 14, 1895. 

At Chester we seem to live in the past, 

though the present is always in evidence. We 

went to morning service in the Church of St. 

John the Baptist, which is rebuilt or restored 



50 LETTEBS TO RUTH. 

among its ruins. The architecture is pure 
Norman, and it was originally built in the 
seventh century. The stone pillars were live 
feet in diameter. The service was choral, and 
the sermon good. Afterwards we walked in 
Grosvenor Park, where there were beautiful 
holly trees and flower beds, and a tine statue of 
a duke of Westminster, whose estate is near, 
and who had been a benefactor to the town. 
While hunting for city walls, we went into the 
yard around the Bishop's palace ; and a young 
man kindly escorted us to a stairway. The 
Bishop has flowers, vegetables, pear trees, and 
a very large house. We ascended the long 
stairway, and were on the walls of this old city 
of Chester. It is strange to think in these 
peaceful days, of the times when places had to 
be surrounded by thick stone walls for protec- 
tion ; and what a unique sidewalk they make. 

We went to the cathedral for vesper service, 
and it is a very ancient looking place. The 
choir is beautiful ; and the choristers sing with 
the same ease and absence of effort as they do 
in Windsor Castle, at Canterbuiy, and West- 
minster Abbey, The lessons are so well read, 
that the story of Saul and David seemed new. 



ENGLAND. 5 1 

The English clergy are excellent readers of the 
Bible. The offertory was taken up in small flat 
bags, by six of the choristers. The anthem 
was sung before the prayers for the Queen and 
Royal family, and the choristers do not sing in 
the processional and recessional. The clergy 
walked through the cloisters to their rooms, in a 
reverent manner. 

To-day the thermometer is 56°, and the winds 
blow like November. The auracaria, called 
"monkey's puzzle," grows in its prime in the 
yards ; and the names of many of the villas 
are on the gate posts. 

A memorable day in this walled town ; at the 
two serviees I hud attended, the same lessons 
were read to you in the Bronson Memorial 
Church, in the Western Reserve of Ohio. 



A Day at Sheffield. 

July 15, 1S95. 
AVe left the old town of Chester, and went 
to Manchester and then to Sheffield. T\ r e rode 
through long tunnels, and these are so many 
and so well built, that they are obstacles in 
the w r ay of enlargement of cars and locomotives. 



52 LETTERS TO RUTH. 

We passed green hedges, flowers and trees, and 
the Manchester ship canal, but saw no ruins. 
The town is smoky with manufactures, and we 
visited the Cammell Steel Works. 

The first thing was a lunch with seven of the 
officials of the company, all educated, agreeable, 
and fine looking gentlemen. The dining room 
was in their large office building ; and the menu 
had an enormous roast of beef, vegetables, and 
dessert. The table favors were Sheffield 
pocket knives — desirable souvenirs — and the 
usual penny asked for payment. 

After lunch, we made a tour of their cele- 
brated works ; and although it was "St. Monday," 
we saw them making armor plate, files of all 
kinds, commercial steel, springs, locomotives 
and car wheels, crank shafts for vessels, screws 
for propellers and general marine work, and 
Sheffield trade. 

I desire again to thank the gentlemen who 
entertained us so graciously, and shall be glad 
to see them in our car, whenever any of them 
visit the United States. 



ENGLAND. 53 

Carlisle. 

July 16, 1895. 

We came to Carlisle election day from Shef- 
field, through the usual beautiful and pastoral 
scenery. Hypericum, spireme, foxgloves, Can- 
terbury bells, and heather adorned the sides of 
the railway track. We went to Workington, 
to the steel mills, and saw eight converters at 
work, and sixty-foot rails rolled, and all the 
machinery and men that such work requires. 
At lunch, the presiding official, Mr. Duffield, 
who was reared in the Dudley mines, which un- 
dermine the Dudley Castle, said, "to think 
that we are entertaining Mr. P. H. Dudley, the 
engineer who has worked such a revolution in 
the form and composition for steel rails," and 
he added, "you are not an old man either." 

From here we went to Penrith, and there 
changed to a corridor train, a rude imitation 
of our elegant vestibule trains, with a dining 
car attached, that was primitive in furnishings 
and service. These railroad companies are 
limited in their cars, in breadth and height, by 
their tunnels ; and they probably will never 
enjoy the luxury, even if they wished, of our 
long, wide, high, and elegantly appointed cars. 



54 LETTERS TO RUTH. 

We rode past Keswick, and saw Southey's 
grave and some of the English lakes which are 
romantic and restful in their appearance, and 
finally stopped at the town of Dudley, to stay 
over night, as a matter of sentiment, and chose 
the Dudley Arms Hotel. In our room was a 
high four-post bedstead, with a valance and 
canopy ; and the wax candle was in a tall brass 
candlestick. In front of the grate was a brass 
fender, and on the dressing table an old swing 
mirror. 



Our Ancestral Castle. 

July 17, 1895. 

The next morning we went into the Dudley 
grounds, and saw the statue of the Earl, given 
by his townsmen for his kindness to them. We 
ascended the hill to the castle, and went through 
three arches, one of them oval, and the other 
two gothic. We w T ent up fifty-eight steps in 
the tower of the keep, and had an extended 
view of the coal mines and furnaces, and the 
land out of which these Dudleys have had 
fortunes. 

The chapel window was gothic, and the 
house windows were in a bay with eight lights. 



ENGLAND. 55 

There were huge fireplaces and large rooms. 
The ground staircase was entirely in ruins. 
All the rooms below, for the servants, were 
dark, and with protection from foes. The 
winding staircase to the sleeping rooms was in 
a tower. The enclosed space, by these large 
buildings of very thick walls, was probably 
used for exercise and tournaments. It was a 
stupendous building for a family, and grand in 
its ruin. We took a cup of tea in the cottage 
of the keeper ; and among the pictures on the 
walls of his little parlor was a portrait of Gar- 
field, — a coincidence, — for Mr. Dudley 
attended Hiram College when the General was 
president of it. This castle was built about the 
year 700, and its ruins are among the oldest in 
England. 



The Home of Shakespeare. 

July IS, 1895. 

From here we went to Stratford on Avon, 

where all good Americans go ; and it is said 

that their patronage aids materially to support 

the town. We took a carriage to the shrine ; 

and as I rang the bell, an elderly gentleman 

opened the dot)r. It seemed only proper to 



56 LETTERS TO HUTU. 

say, how do you do, Mr. Shakespeare? He 
asked if we wished to go through the house, for 
which we paid and took receipts for souvenirs ; 
and the guide escorted us, explaining in a 
sing song voice the rooms, their use and res- 
toration. We went into the museum, and from 
the windows could see into the yard, where 
grow and bloom the flowers that Shakespeare 
had written about in his plays. It would have 
added much to have heard descendants sing of 
the lark he had harked. 

The town is very clean, the drinking foun- 
tain and clock, given by an American, in a 
central place and useful. We lunched at the 
Inn, Irving has made immortal ; but I fancy it 
has changed since his day. The house of Har- 
vard is also a place of interest, and is a link 
between Cambridge, Mass. , and Stratford. We 
rode from here to London, passing by Oxford, 
with its historical colleges, and Windsor Castle, 
in all its grandeur and history ; and thought of 
the enchanting garden party given by the Queen 
and Prince of Wales, to the delegates of the 
Railway Congress ; and reached London in full 
daylight, at half past eight. 

The English people who make a tour of the 



ENGLAND. 5? 

United States, feel competent to give their 
opinions, and that is well. Travelers abroad 
always have some ideas that are prominent. 
England seems to have been built on pennies, 
for they are asked for at every turn. Guards 
who open car doors expect, and probably always 
receive some ; and the performances about pen- 
nies in railroad stations and public places are 
ridiculous and sometimes annoying. 

The common run of people do not seem as 
bright as that class at home. As we rode 
through the country, I could see whole fields 
of poppies, hardly a crop of wheat, oats, or 
barley without them. It occurred to me, that 
the amount of ground poppy seed in all their 
bread and beer might be enough to make them / 
dull and stupid. The business men are alert, / 
and acknowledge the ability of their American f 
cousins, with a pride in their relationship. 



London. 

July 19, 1895. 

The conveniences for traveling in London 
are many ; the few street cars, the many busses, 
hansoms, and carriages, and lastly the de- 
pressed, for nothing can be more dark and 



58 LETTERS TO BUTH. 

forlorn and depressing than the underground 
railway. It goes around the city, and connects 
with all the trunk lines ; and of course is a great 
convenience, depressing as it is. The ticket 
seller never asks, but takes it for granted that 
you will go third class ; and that must be the 
usual custom. During our trips, we usually 
had first class compartments to ourselves. 
Refreshment and waiting rooms at stations are 
also classified. Their cars are like oinnibusses, 
side by side, and the doors open conveniently 
upon the platforms. The windows in the doors 
shove up and down, like those in a carriage. 
Our universal car conveniences are here the 
exception, instead of the rule. The coaches are 
small, low, and narrow. The track is laid with 
opposite and suspended joints, and } r ou can 
count each one. Accidents, however, are few ; 
their trains make good time, and the peo- 
ple are satisfied. But their trains do not com- 
pare with ours, in size, or luxury of chairs, 
sleepers, buffet, dining and toilet rooms, and 
general conveniences. 

In the busy crossings of the city streets, 
there are small stone ovals with central columns, 
called "refuges," a necessary oasis for pedes- 
trians. 



BELGIUM, GERMANY, AND AUSTRIA. 59 

CHAPTER THIRD. 
Belgium, Germany and Austria. 

From London to Brussels. 

July 19, 1895. 

We left London at 10 A. M., and rode 
through the beautiful country, passing line 
estates — among them Chiselhurst, a former 
residence of an ex-empress. We took the 
Calais boat at Dover, and had a good view 
of the old castle on the chalk cliifs. 

The passage of an hour and a half was said to 
be very good, and yet nearly all were sick. At 
Calais we struck the French language and noth- 
ing else, as a means for communicating and 
receiving ideas ; also the custom house, where 
we declared we had nothing to declare. 

The cars are like those in England, and as 
usual we had a first class compartment to our- 
selves ; except between two stations, a lady and 
gentleman rode with us. That was nothing 
special to record ; but when she left, she bowed 
to us — a degree in manners I never met before, 
especially as we had not spoken a word. As a 
rule, I have found foreigners more willing to 
converse than American tourists. 



60 LETTERS TO RUTH. 

We rode along through ground, every foot 
of which was cultivated. Potatoes, so free from 
weeds, and in such full bloom, they looked 
ornamental. Barley, wheat, and beans, with 
gardens of onions, lettuce, and peas, were in 
perfect condition. Rows and double rows of 
willow and poplar trees trimmed high, so that 
the shade might not interfere with the growth 
of the crops. The only divisions were hedges. 
Wind mills were frequent, and the landscape 
had a quaint appearance. Women worked in 
the fields. The houses were very small, but 
seemed comfortable. These views chased each 
other from Calais to the beautiful city of Brus- 
sels, where we stopped, our first night on the 
continent, and among a people of another 
language. 



Brussels. 

July 20, 1895. 

We took a carriage and went to the Botani- 
cal Gardens, an excellent place for students, 
and beautiful grounds for pedestrians. There 
are first, second, third, and fourth quarters for 
the botanist ; and the plants are all labelled, and 
the beds in families, or vice versa. There is 
also a hothouse for palms and tropical plants. 



BELGIUM. 61 

We passed the palace of the King, a large, three 
story, but unpretentious house, with extensive 
grounds and trees, conventional flower beds, and 
statuary. 

Mr. Dudley having an appointment with the 
Chief Engineer of the railroads, which in Belgium 
are under the control of the government, we went 
to that department of the public works, and 
rung the bell, which opened the door. As we 
entered the hall, a young man drew a curtain 
from a small opening in the hall, and asked us 
in French our wishes. Upon hearing, and seeing 
the visiting cards, we were well directed and 
escorted, and at the office we were offered a 
glass of wine and some cake by Monsieur Louis 
de Busschere, the Chief Engineer of the Belgian 
Railways. He showed us in Dr. Haarman's 
"History of the Permanent Way in All Coun- 
tries the illustration of P. H. Dudley's section 
of live inch, eighty pound, broad head steel 
rail, designed in 1883, put into service in 1884, 
by the N. Y. C. & H. R. R. R." 

This was the first five inch steel rail in ser- 
vice in the United States and the invention of 
its broad, thin, and well supported head is be- 
coming the model type of the entire railway 
world for the Yi^nole section. 



62 LETTERS TO BUTH. 

It was this form, and high carbon composition 
that have permitted the introduction and con- 
tinuance of the "Empire State Express"' in 
1891, "the fastest, long distance train in the 
world." 

After this pleasant interview we passed 
the elegant Palais of Justice, and the public 
buildings with domes have a more imposing 
appearance than other styles of architecture. 

The Cathedral here is grand; and had not 
only an attractive interior, but an agreeable 
odor. The pulpit is of carved wood, represent- 
ing the expulsion of Adam and Eve from the 
garden of Eden. The serpent and animals, 
such as squirrels, parrots, and pigeons, were 
also carved. Over the whole was a virgin and 
child ; the former with a spear stuck into the head 
of the serpent, as recorded in Scripture, "thou 
shalt bruise his head,'* etc. The stained glass 
is brilliant, notably the Last Judgment, between 
the two parts of the organ. I met here some 
tourists, diligently studying a guidebook, but 
not seeing anything ; for they did not know 
which was nave or transept or choir, and of 
course unable to locate the special objects. 

We left Brussels for Lieire at 5 P.M. ; and 



BELGIUM. 63 

the ride continued through intensely cultivated 
lands, which we could see, until we reached our 
destination at seven o'clock. So far at the 
hotels there is some one to speak English, as 
well as Ave speak French, and no annoyance 
from the difference in lan^uao'e. 



Liege. 

July 21, 1895. 

Sunday in Liege, we attended the morning 
service in the Cathedral ; which was different 
from any I ever saw before, except in Panama. 
There came in several companies of soldiers 
with red coats and guns. They kept on their 
hats during the entire service. Their generals 
and colonels were in full uniform ; and the sol- 
diers shouldered arms and ordered arms many 
times, presumably upon the arrival of some one 
of note. Then came several men with gowns and 
hoods denoting college degrees, notably one with 
an ermine collar, and another of black velvet. 
The candles Avere lighted on the altar, and a 
cardinal with three bishops entered together. 
The former had his train held up by one priest, 
and another one took his hat. They all bowed 



64 LETTERS TO RUTH. 

to each other in the most polite manner, almost 
like forming for a quadrille. The Te Deum was 
sung and played very well, the solo singers 
having sweet voices. The audience stood dur- 
ing the entire service ; then all went out in reg- 
ular order, as they had entered. The pulpit 
has marble statuary, life size ; and the stained 
glass is beautiful. 

One might almost think that the cathedrals 
would be too much alike for separate description ; 
but the} 7 are not similar, only that they take 
all the good adjectives known in languages to 
express their grandeur ; and then ear hath not 
heard how magnificent they really are. 

Liege is an old manufacturing town. To-day 
the streets are full of musical societies, trying 
for prizes ; and the Marsellaise has been 
played many times by many bands. The shops 
are open, and the town is lively, even though 
there are frequent showers. French is gener- 
ally spoken, though it is said that the common 
people talk Flemish ; and that may account for 
all notices in the railroad stations being in the 
two languages. There were four prizes given, 
and a German band took the first. It was a 
lively night, and the rain did not interfere. 



BELGIUM. 65 

The most unhappy objects or subjects I have 
seen in Belgium are the dogs ; for here they are 
beasts of burden, and draw carts, and look 
overworked. If they only knew how to emi- 
grate to America, they would start at once. 

Some of the street sweepers here are women ; 
and I noted that their brooms were made of 
little withs, upon the handles of which they 
leaned and visited with each other, just as the 
men cleaners do in our cities. 

At the hotel we were each given a lighted 
candle by the concierge ; and as we marched to 
our room, I felt like a choir boy in a proces- 
sional. 



Seraing and Cologne. 

July 22, 1895. 

We took an early train for Seraing, to visit 
the Cockerell Steel Works, which cover many 
acres of ground, and employ hundreds of men. 
They use both the Bessemer process for rails, 
and the Basic for dephosphorizing the steel. It 
being St. Monday, as it is called, not all the 
works were in full blast ; but they can make any- 
thing desired in the steel line. The ores they 
use come from Belgium, France, and Spain, and 
they mine their own coal. 



66 LETTERS TO RUTH. 

On our return to Liege, we passed in our 
carriage the musical societies ; and the four who 
had won prizes carried banners, so that those 
who rode could see. In their exuberance of de- 
light, they lifted their hats in passing to us ; and 
we returned their bows with pleasure. 

From Liege to Cologne the country is pleas- 
ant. The railroad passes through highly cul- 
tivated farms, manufactories, and well built 
towns. At Herbesthal, we went into Germany 
and had to go up the hill like the King of France, 
and have our bags pawed over, and then inarch 
down again to our compartment. I wonder if 
anything was found dutiable among the gowns 
and shirts, collars and cuffs, etc. What non- 
sense it is for travelers ; and what an annoyance 
it would be to go through that performance, when 
passing from one state to another at home. 

The roadside was gay with campanula, 
golden rod, the ever present poppies ; and in 
one place were rows of fruit trees, some of them 
red with Siberian crab apples . I have wondered , 
with these thrifty people, that they did not have 
more fruit trees ; possibly the seasons are not 
suitable. 

We reached Cologne about four o'clock, and 



GERMANY. 6? 



found the language had changed ; and we were 
now, to all intents, Dutchmen. Our hotel was 
so near the Cathedral that we heard its bells ring 
long enough to wish they would stop. The in- 
terior is rich in stained glass, and the exterior 
in statuary. About all these, volumes have and 
can be written, and yet the imagination must 
help description. The houses in the best streets 
are fine, the parks laid out with conventional 
flower beds ; and some of the vines were trained 
in festoons, the effect being attractive and novel. 

In all of these places there are traditions and 
legends enough to take all ones time, and of no 
account only to that kind of a specialist. I 
heard some ladies from the United States, or 
Americans, as we are called, say that the next 
time they came over, they would do the unusual. 
Therefore, as we are doing that and the other, I 
leave tradition and minute descriptions to guide- 
books and smides with their sing-sonjr stories. 

I enjoy asking the people questions that I do 
not expect them to answer ; to see them begin to 
shrug their shoulders, and draw their heads in- 
to a cavity, like a turtle, almost out of sight. 
Their anatomy must certainly be different from 
ours. 



68 LETTEBS TO BUTE. 

The Steel Works of Krupp. 

July 23, 1895. 

We left Cologne early, and the ride to Essen 
was through cultivated land. If ever wild 
flowers make me wild, it is while riding in a car ; 
because it is then impossible to stop, and the 
glimpses of them, their variety and luxuriance, 
are really exasperating. Blue bells, pink 
heather, spirea, hypericum, trefoil, etc., bloom 
profusely. A guard at one of the stations, 
upon seeing my desire, clutched hands full, and 
handed in to me. For the first time we saw 
fields of buckwheat, and the white pines and 
oaks are larger than usual. 

Essen is an old town with narrow streets ;and 
there are large steel works, which provide for 
hundreds of workmen. The original Krupp 
house is still standing among the mills, where 
guns are made. The name signifies chimnies. 

At all prominent stations the station master 
is in evidence, clothed in full authority, a red 
cap and red tape. 



Osnabruck. 

July 24, 1895. 

We reached Osnabruck in the evening, and 

from my window in the hotel there is a view of 



GERMANY. 69 

a large cathedral. Mr Dudley visited the steel 
works ; and in the afternoon the Director Gen- 
eral sent his carriage, and we rode to their 
blast furnaces. Some of the ride was through 
a forest. 

At the table d'hote was an officer in the 
German army. As he entered the dining room 
he bowed, and also to those each side of him, 
and lastly upon leaving the room. 

July 25, 1895, 
We left Osnabruck early, and rode along these 
well tilled fields, where only old men, women, 
and children are seen, doing farm work. The 
imperial government takes the men away from 
their homes and lands, and they pass their days 
and strength in evolutions against a possible 
enemy, instead of taking care of their families. 
When their army time expires, they must return 
to their homes, out of touch with them. The 
Emperor, who owes his pow r er merely to being 
born, may feel proud of his soldiers, their size 
and discipline and erect bearing. But the Em- 
press, who owes her position to marriage, would 
not feel proud, if she rode through her domin- 
ions, and saw the women and children doing the 
work that should be done by men. It is often 



70 LETTEBS TO BUTE. 

necessary to look twice, to see if the scarecrows 
in the fields of grain are born or made . Dogs and 
cows are beasts of burden, hitched to carts, and 
driven by women. We read of the divine right 
of kings; but there is in the minds of all men, 
a sense of the divine right of justice. 

The forests all show official care, and the trees 
are of all sizes and species, white birch, pine, firs, 
etc. The Elbe is discovered in places, by seeing 
white sails coming up from ostensible meadows ; 
then the water will Hash for a moment, as the 
train speeds along. 

At Hanover the " Restauration"' served hot 
boullion. Such a good idea ought to be re- 
corded. The little girls on the steps of their 
homes are seen knitting in their peculiar way. 
AVe changed cars into a through train from Co- 
logne, with extra fare for the seats, and reached 
Berlin about six o'clock. 



The City of Berlin. 

July 25, 1895. 

After dinner at our hotel, we walked and rode, 

and found seemingly the whole town out doors. 

Every possible place where a table and chairs 

could be, people were drinking, and perhaps 



GEBMANY. U 

eating, and this German habit is entirely 
different from ours. Berlin is a beautiful city, 
clean, and with a thriving appearance. I shall 
never forget my disappointment at the sight of 
" U nter den Linden." My imagination from 
reading had raised the trees to the height and 
size of our largest lindens, and the palaces were 
all there. Instead of this, the trees are mostly 
sycamore, quite small, and would never be 
noticed if they were not noted. The Arch of 
Triumph is fine ; and the Thiergarten is so thick 
in places, that it would not be possible for 
some people to walk. 

The monument to Luther is imposing ; and he 
stands before the people, much more alive to-day 
than when he was here. The statue of an angel 
had an appearance in the rear as if he or she had 
on a basque and petticoat. In all the hotels 
now we have down quilts, and they are comfort- 
able. The soldiers wear their caps on the tops 
of their heads. The elevated and city road is 
so connected with the main lines, as to be con- 
venient for railroads and the people. 

From Berlin to Dresden the track was very 
rough and tiresome, even though the first class 
carriage was well upholstered. The scenery was 
tame ; the ground well tilled. 



t2 LETTEBS TO BVTH. 

Dresden. 

July 26, 1895. 

We stayed over night at Dresden, the city 
fortunate in having Raphael's Sistine Madonna, 
which is not placed as the artist or its creator 
would have it. Originally it was in the apse of 
the church ; and with the light over it, looked 
to the people in front as if the saints were 
showing to them the Saviour coming from the 
clouds above, with suggestions of cherubim and 
seraphim. 

At the hotel in Dresden the ornamentation 
was entirely of a hunting character. A stuffed 
bear held cards in his paws, hat racks were of 
stacked guns, antlers were over the doors, and 
it was all rich and unique. The dining room 
had palms and plants arranged in a pyramid 
and lighted by electricity, and the effect was 
pleasing. 

The ride along the Elbe was a surprise, for 
on the stony crags and heights w T ere old 
castles, fortifications and walls. The natural 
advantages had been used when possible, but 
thousands of men, years and material had 
contributed to their formation. They stood 
so high that they could be seen for miles. 



GERMANY. ?3 

After we descended to the valley, the fields lay 
as far as we could see like colored ribbons and 
checker boards, with yellow and green grains 
and poppy beds. The latter may be cultivated 
for Codeia. Women, dogs, and cows seem to 
be beasts of burden, and horses are rarely seen. 
I have not seen a single schoolhouse through 
any of the countries, as we have them at home, 
with the addition now of the stars and stripes, 
an idea both patriotic and poetical. 

They have here castles and history, so do we ; 
ruins and tradition, we have those also. We 
have more general education and desire for 
progress, and the keenness to seize upon every- 
thing advanced. The railroads do not compare 
with ours ; the cars are low, compartments 
small, and they pound along on their single 
axles, over their opposite joints, in a noisy 
and tiresome manner. 



The Old and New City of Vienna. 

July 27, 1S95. 

We reached Vienna in the evening, and rode 
to the hotel. We were requested to walk down 
stairs, and only use the lift to ascend. The next 
morning we went to the Fine Art Gallery, an 



14 LETTERS TO RUTH. 

elegant building, and richly ornamented, both 
outside and inside. The walls and pillars of 
colored marbles, with paintings by celebrated 
artists, and countless objects of interest, make 
it notable ; especially the room devoted to 
armor for men, children and horses, some 
showing dents and bruises of service. The 
museum is opposite, with a large fountain 
between. 

The cathedral was open, and a clergyman 
preaching ; while people were walking, some 
kneeling before shrines, and others sitting in the 
choir. Mass had evidently just been finished. 
We took a ride around the Jvingstrasse, which 
called for three changes of street cars in Aus- 
trian Dutch ; and it meant so much work that 
it was tiresome, but gave a glow of satisfaction 
when completed. Afterwards we took a car- 
riage, and drove out to the exposition grounds of 
1873. There were drives, walks, trees, beer 
gardens, and some of the buildings, remaining. 

The public palaces, colleges, and opera 
houses are all elegant, and the new part of the 
town is as handsome as an}' of the continental 
cities. The Botanical Garden seems to be only 
a park, w r ith trees trimmed for hedges, and 



AUSTBIA. 75 

flower beds, fountains, and seats, and is attrac- 
tive, but not a place for study or identification 
of specimens. 



Vienna to Venice over the Sommering Pass. 

July 29, 1S95. 

We took an early train, and rode through a 
farming country, where there were occasional 
fields of corn. The woman question in regard 
to labor is settled in this country ; for I saw 
them tamping the track, laying stone wall, 
hoeing, binding sheaves, and carrying heavy 
burdens on their backs. 

There seem to be international sets of trees 
and plants, and the temperate zone species are 
universal. Some of them, however, in places, 
are so trimmed, that one could think they 
would not know to which family they belonged. 
The cities all have their peculiarities, and there 
is no danger of even a rapid traveler getting 
them mixed in recollection. In place of school- 
houses, there are shrines; hardly a landscape 
without one. 

The Sommering Pass over the Austrian Alps 
gave the opportunity to civil engineers ; and the 
railroad wound around, rose and fell through, 



76 LETTERS TO BUTH. 

up, and down those mountains, like a ribbon. 
What bridges of substantial build, what tun- 
nels, what grades and curves, what trees and 
views, what hath man wrought over these Alps. 
The air and day were delightful, and the whole 
pass of twenty-five miles was inspiring. 

The women at the stations had Alpine flowers 
and curios to sell, and also mountain straw- 
berries. They also had the same thrifty habit 
of placing the best berries on the top, that I 
have seen in the new world. 

The starry clematis, the traveler's joy, clamb- 
ered over shrubs and trees ; the pines filled the 
air with their fragrance ; and the ride and day 
are memorable. At the meeting of the states 
of Austria and Italy, affairs changed at once. 
German ceased to be spoken. Italian officials 
and names appeared. Baggage was examined ; 
and an officer even came into the first class 
compartment, where I was sitting, turned my 
pockets inside out, and the cushions upside 
down, to see if I was smuggling cigars and 
whiskey. Not being engaged in that delec- 
table business, the search did not annoy me. 

Very soon we were among the Italian Alps, 
composed of limestone, standing white as snow 



AUSTRIA. 77 

in the moonlight, and against the dark blue 
sky. We went through tunnels and over arches, 
and along occasional streams, with hardly any 
other trees but the Lombardy poplars. The 
fields were well cultivated, and some of the 
grape vines were in full fruit. 

The uniform of the Italian soldiers is the 
most becoming of any we have seen, and there 
are always two or more at every station. Time 
tables are not given to travelers, but have to be 
purchased. As a rule the railway stations in 
all the countries through which we have passed, 
are large, commodious, and substantially built 
of brick or stone and solid woods, with sub- 
ways of enameled bricks, usually white. We 
always seem to go up or down some steps to 
reach the platforms to take the trains. The 
locomotives do not at all have the imposing 
appearance and simplicity of construction of 
our American type of passenger engines. In 
some stations I could see little turn tables and 
transfers for single cars to any desired track, 
entirely different from the drilling practice for 



T8 LETTERS TO RUTH. 

CHAPTER FOUR. 

Italy. 

The Unique City. 

July 30, 1S95. 

We reached Venice about midnight, and took 
a gondola to our hotel, as if it had been our 
daily habit. But how strange it was — the 
gliding of the boat, the lapping of the water, the 
peculiar yell of the gondolier. Since morning 
we have been on the heights, in the afternoon 
in the valley, and now in the water. Curiously 
enough, our hotel was on one of the principal 
streets, as much as three feet wide ; and people 
were passing noisily all the time. 

Venice is so different from any other city, 
and it has been described so much and so well, 
and with all the adjectives possible, that I was 
surprised. The water is clear, but not clean. 
The lion of St. Mark is small, and perched up 
on a shaft, which is no place for an animal of 
that kind, unless he was doing penance. 

The highly ornamented Cathedral of St. Mark 
is most beautiful and wonderful, when you 
know that all the pictures are mosaics, and dif- 
ferent from any other. The square is surrounded 



ITAL Y. f 9 

by shops, and the pigeons are numerous and 
hun«ry. The palace and prison are still united 
by that fearful bridge, over which good and 
strong men must have walked, with their hearts 
way down in their heels. How cruel mankind 
has been, and how selfish. History shows the 
inhumanity of jealousy and the irony of fate, 
and time is making these palaces into ruins. 

The ride on the grand canal was interesting 
from its novelty. From the Rialto we passed 
in gondolas, a family moving, the old plaster of 
a house, a washerwoman taking her laundry, 
a butcher delivering his wares, young ladies in 
visiting attire, evidently making calls, a gentle- 
man in his own property, with gondoliers in 
livery, and all the wants of a city attended to 
by these long steel pointed boats. We passed 
lace works, glass manufactories, carpet and rug 
weavings, and other sorts of business; and it 
all seemed unreal, because it was so unusual. 

We left Venice in a sleeping car, which is a 
sort of parody or satire on the American plan. 
The scenery was tame, until we struck some 
more limestone mountains, the Appenines, one 
of which was very white and prominent. The 
natives seem to hang up their clothes to dry on 
the ground. The night ride was quiet. 



80 LETTEBS TO BUTH. 

Rome Imperial. 

July 31, 1895. 

My first view of Rome was St. Peter's dome, 
in the early morning light. I noted anew tree, 
which proved to be a narrow leaf Eucalyptus, 
with a loose bark. This has been of great eco- 
nomical value in Rome in marshy places, and 
also for its agreeable odor. We saw grain 
threshing with a primitive steam affair. The 
sun was warm, but the air was dry. At the 
station there were ruins where many thousands 
could be seated. The hotel was near, and had 
heavy curtains over the doors, and many palms 
in the interior, with a manager who spoke 
English well — a great treat in a foreign land. 

After breakfast we took a carriage and drove 
to the post office, past fountains and houses, and 
in narrow streets, out into the dusty country 
road to St. Paul, outside the walls. The ex- 
terior gives no suggestion of the beauty within ; 
for the forest of white pillars and the marble 
floor give a chaste appearance, unseen in any 
other basilica. 

We drove to the St. Calixta Catacombs, and 
found in the little house two priests, genial and 
humorous, notwithstanding their gloomy sur- 
roundings. I wonder if they ever heard of 



ITALY. 81 

Mark Tapley ? We took lighted wax tapers, and 
threw course shawls over our shoulders, and 
went down into the coolness and darkness, where 
the early Christians met to worship, and were 
buried. Their bones lie here in stone niches, 
and some in glass cases, where the inscriptions 
indicate a royal or notable personage. How 
changed and how glorious is this century com- 
pared to that time. The promises are to those 
who overcome ; theirs is the glory, the comfort 
is ours. Their favorite hymns must have been 
such as ''Arise, shine, for the Light is come," 
" Stand up for Jesus," " Kejoice," " Hallelujah," 
and all those of energy, hope, and radiance. 
Our life of ease makes attractive such hymns as 
"Art thou weary, art thou languid," etc. 
The time for heroic Christianity is past. 

From this gloom we drove to the Caracalla 
baths, a sensible expenditure it was in those 
old Romans ; and one could wish they were now 
in running order, and filled with natives. Coins 
and antiques are for sale everywhere ; and if they 
are old or new, what is the difference, they were 
bought at the proper places, and have the proper 
appearance. The roadway was dusty. The 
pine trees grew, or were trimmed to look, like 



82 LETTERS TO RUTH. 

umbrellas. Clematis ran over fences and on 
the ground, its starry flowers always conspicu- 
ous. We walked on the Appian \Tay, that 
aid to civilization, by making easy progress 
from one place to another. 

The Palace of the Caesars : we read in the 
Bible of the power of that family, holding not 
only persons, but nations, in their hands, and 
know of the magnificence of their houses ; and 
now see the few stones, not one left upon the 
other, of what is shown as their palace, to-day. 
The only thing remaining is their place in his- 
tory, and that is a great deal. In sight of these 
ruins is St. Peter's Cathedral, the largestchurch in 
the world, with its plaza and approach of pillars, 
its dome so high and large, its precious paintings 
and sculpture, its stained glass and relics, that 
it takes the book of the Revelation and St. 
John the Divine to describe it. St. Peter, who 
was persecuted and martyred, is alive to-day, 
all over the world. He is read and preached ; 
he is hope and comfort and strength. His house 
is magnificent ; the Caesars are in ruins. 

The Arch of Constantine is keeping its good 
name in good repair. The Temple of Vesta is 
a classical building, and the bridge across the 



ITALY. 83 

Tiber is modern. The Vatican has a plain ap- 
pearance on the outside, but its interior is full 
of wonders and marvels. Some of the gardens 
are beautiful, as they should be, for tropical 
plants grow here without difficulty. The Pan- 
theon is a well preserved relic, and the burial 
place of Raphael, who is alive to-day in his 
Sistine Madonna in Dresden. 

But the Coliseum, so sublime and dignified in 
its ruin, stands alone, different and useless, 
except in its lessons of power and martyrdom. 
The number of men, the amount of material in 
this building, seem beyond comprehension. Its 
use was not for the advancement of mankind, 
only in the inhuman way out of this world ; 
and it now only stands, an imposing relic of 
past sacrifices. 

The outside of the Quirinal is plain ; the 
view through the open gates shows flower beds, 
shrubbery, and the ever present Roman soldiers. 

The Church of St. John the Lateran, has an 
attractive cloister and garden with roses in 
bloom ; the attendant giving one to me, which I 
have pressed, to call to remembrance all these 
charming experiences. This Cathedral has as 
much of interest as St. Peter's, for the Popes 



84 LETTEBS TO RUTH. 

are here consecrated, and its works of art so 
valuable as to be priceless. The bronze doors 
are musical as they open and shut ; and Wagner 
might have had a motive from them, for their 
airs were not Italian. 

In the chapel adjoining we kneeled our way 
up the sacred stairs ; and such a tiresome way it 
was, that I do not wonder that Luther got mad, 
and was inspired, or vice versa, to think that 
there were other ways of worship than to expend 
ones strength for that which did not accomplish 
anything but <n*eat fatigue. I bought a New 
Testament, in memory of St. Paul's Epistle to 
the Romans ; a specific attention, that increases 
in value as the years roll. 

As we rode away on the train to the north, we 
saw ruins of the old Roman acqueduct finely 
outlined against the sky. Eucalyptus trees are 
in profusion along the railroad on the coast, and 
soon we began to see the olives and vines of the 
semi-tropical country. The grapes hung in green 
clusters from the vines that trailed in festoons 
from tree to tree. As soon as the Mediterranean 
is reached, and from that point to Genoa, the 
views are entrancing. There are one hundred 
and nine tunnels between Rome and Pisa ; and 



ITALY. 85 

we were astonished at the amount of work on 
the railroad, as it wound its way along the 
sparkling blue water of the sea. 



Enchanting Pisa?! 

xiugust 2, 1895. 

The name of Pisa is enough to tell of the 
attraction of the place, but words do not give 
any idea of the beauty of the leaning tower, 
cathedral, and baptistry. We stepped up and 
around to the top of the former, looking up and 
down, out and in, backward and forward ; and 
all the views were superb. That the leaning- 
Tower of Pisa is the interrogation point of the 
whole world, as it is the exclamation point also, 
is no winder to those who have seen it. The 
front of the cathedral is admirable ; and the 
interior with its Michael Angelo, and the lamp 
whose swinging pendulum suggested ideas to 
Galileo, is rich in art and beauty. The baptis- 
try has an old organ with wooden keys and 
eight pedals. The bellows worked by pulling 
two ropes. Expecting little or nothing, I played 
upon it a few chords : 



86 LET TEES TO BUTH. 






-&- 



9± 



ks- 



-im- 



and to iny surprise the music pealed forth like 
a diapason. This is partly owing to the echo 
that rolls around in perfect triads of harmony, 
and melodiously dies away. 

I went into a market for fruit, and as the 
word passed around among the keepers of stalls, 
that there was an American, I became an object 
of interest. Some of them may have had rel- 
atives who had emigrated to our land. 

The ride from here to Genoa is one of a series 
of exquisite pictures. The elegant villas with 
palms and tropical plants, oleanders in full 
bloom, hedges of century plants in bloom, the 
sage green of the olive trees on the hills, the 
grape vines in profusion, the arches over the 
rocks where the way of the railroad has been 
cut, the deep blue sea lapping the beach with 
gentle ripples, the foam dashing against the 
rocks, the Italian sky, the cool breezes — all 
combined to make an enchanting ride. 

Genoa is a commercial city, and is interesting 



ITALY. 87 

to us, by being the birthplace of Columbus ; 
and Americans never feel more like honoring 
his name, than when traveling in a far country. 
The women along the railroads raise the sig- 
nals for the trains. Sometimes the supposable 
husbands stand in the doorways, and once he 
was doing the family wash. The women on the 
continent, as seen from car windows, have much 
outdoor exercise and many games ; but they 
are played with rakes, hoes, and plows, with 
the help of dogs and cows hitched up in the 
fashionable tandem manner. Children drive 
flocks of geese, and they all walked together in 
a sober and friendly way. 



Marvelous Milan. 

August 3, 1895. 

Milan is noted, like so many other places, for 

its cathedral ; but beside that, it is a really 

pleasant place, with good houses and parks, and 

a spirit of appreciation ; for they have erected 

a statue of Leonardo di Vinci, whose painting of 

the Last Supper is in one of the churches. 

There are two arcades crossing, with open ends ; 

a convenient place, that gives the feeling of an 

entire umbrella raised for sunshine or storm. In 



88 LETTERS TO BUTH. 

such a place shopping could be done in all kinds 
of weather, if the necessaries were combined. 

From that useful place, the front and side of 
the cathedral could be seen and studied. The 
amount of time and material, money and men, 
brains and skill, art and science, to build such a 
church seems appalling. The interior is grand 
and gloomy, with enormous pillars and a large 
organ, and an illuminated shrine, several feet 
down, around which people were kneeling. 

What a comfort this Roman Catholic theol- 
ogy seems to be to the masses. Old men and 
women before some altar, or picture, or statue ; 
young girls with anxiety on their upturned faces, 
perhaps in trouble with their young men, asking 
the Virgin or some saint to help them ; others 
radiant, giving thanks for what they have 
received — a bethrothal ring perhaps. The 
hopes and desires, despairs and regrets, can all 
be helped by these outward and visible signs. 



The Alps pierced. 

August 3, 1895. 

The pass of St. Gothard is a marvel of engi- 
neering skill through the Alps, — the railroad 
curves and loops, falls and rises, goes through 



ITALY. 89 

helicoiclal tunnels and over arches. It is 
wonderful for its great work and the beauty 
of the scenery — waterfalls hundreds of feet 
high, dashing into spray, gorges with rushing 
water, trees, with here and there a meadow 
on which cows graze. The little Swiss 
chalets, the very green grass, the cliffs above 
and below, with occasional peaks covered with 
eternal snow, give instantaneous views of 
beauty, sublimity, and grandeur. 

History throws light on many financial prob- 
lems of panics and booms. When the Romans 
built the acqueducts, Appian Way, palaces and 
coliseum, men, material, and money were used 
in numbers and quantity. That made good 
times. After that, until the cathedrals were 
built, the situation was probably dull. These 
magnificent structures, employing all kinds of 
material and labor, both skilled and unskilled, 
stimulated commerce ; for the world must have 
been called upon to contribute, and times must 
have been good. 

In this century has come railroad building, 
employing countless numbers of men, the best 
civil and mechanical engineering ability of all 
countries, and also the use of all kinds of mate- 



90 LETTERS TO RUTH. 

rial. This one pass of St. Gothard has cost 
millions of money. The Mt. Cenis has placed 
millions more in circulation. Our own great 
railroad systems, across the continent, have 
stimulated every industry ; and the widening 
circles have benefited the whole world. 

But now the railroads are built, and what we 
are pleased to call hard times is here ; merely 
the rest between a very active period, and 
another that will probably come. For the 
epoch of electricity is here, and when the Alps 
have not been a barrier to any commerce, and 
Niagara is harnessed, there should come to all a 
good living and a good education. 

Many of the natives have feathers or some 
kinds of fur on their hats, presumably showing 
their prowess in hunting. 

Some tourists are wishing to see the Southern 
Cross, while in Rome, but they will not be 
gratified, for on the equator I have seen its 
brilliant beauty flashing, just on the horizon. 



SWITZERLAND. 91 

CHAPTER FIVE. 

The Republic of Switzerland. 

Lucerne and Briinig Pass. 

August 4, 1895. 

We landed in Lucerne for over Sunday, and 
have a pleasant room, with the blue lake, the 
snow clad mountains, the Rigi and Pilatus, all 
in view by turning the eyes. Tourists go and 
come, and do not mind the weather. We cross 
the curious old bridges, and see the pictures of 
the dance of death, which is real ; for he is 
always with us, and must be good, for all must 
die. We attended the cathedral with the 
two pointed spires, and saw the devout take the 
holy water and distribute among the family from 
fingers to fingers. The table d'hote entertains 
all nationalities, — the Germans seeming to be 
more polite by bowing before sitting down to the 
table. 

We left Lucerne on the fifth, and took an 
ordinary railroad for some distance ; then the 
train was cut in twain, and we went up the moun- 
tain on a rack road to the summit, and came 
down in the same manner. The ascent was grad- 
ual, with cultivated valley farms growing small 



92 LETTEBS TO BUTH. 

in the distance ; the rocks and cliffs above us ; 
tall beech trees, which seemed to grow out to the 
light; views of mountains in all directions, 
green, gray, and white, with foaming cascades, 
some falling from the top to the valley. We 
passed clustered and scattered Alpine houses, 
wild flowers, pink eupatorium, bluebells, hype- 
ricum, sedum, gerardia, wild carrot, maple 
trees, balsams, vines, and mosses — some of 
them so near the car that it was possible to pick 
them in passing. Raspberries and strawberries 
were ripe, and there was a profusion of nature 
up and down and around. 

After reaching the valley we took the 
steamer Obenwald, on Lake Brienz, and went to 
Interlachen, entirely w T alled in by the Alpine 
range, with all the colors of the different alti- 
tudes. The ride from there to Berne was 
through a succession of Alpine views, and all of 
them sublime. 



The Capital of Switzerland. 

August 6, 1895. 

In Berne w r e had the glorious view of the 

snowy Bernese Alps, occupying about twenty 



SWITZERLAND. 93 

degrees, and the Jungfrau conspicuous. The 
Alpine glint graciously tinged them with yellow, 
then pink ; and the full moon silvered them in 
radiant beauty. A walk around the town shows 
that it is quaint, with arcades, bears, a cathedral, 
and a clock that has the hour struck by a bronze 
man. The sun, moon, and earth were fig- 
ured in their relative positions, and* many col- 
lected to see the mechanism work at nine o'clock. 
In the public gardens were growing bananas — 
a curious sight for this tropical plant — with 
the snowy Alps in view. 

The railroad ride to Geneva was through 
Freiburg, with large academic buildings, Lau- 
sanne with its extended view and castle of the 
thirteenth century ; and there were vineyards on 
hillsides and in valleys. Little steamers came 
and went ; tourists did the same. We reached 
Geneva at noon, where our room overlooked the 
lake at our feet and Mt. Blanc in the distance. 

Geneva would be taken for a city of watches 
and jewelry, even if it w r as not known to have 
many manufactories of these articles ; for the 
streets are lined with shops for their sale. We 
went to the Botanical Gardens, the labels being- 
high and convenient. The university, library 



94 LETTERS TO RUTH. 

and museum front on the park, and also a 
picture gallery. It is a quiet and pleasant 
place. The river Rhone and Lake Geneva 
sparkle in the sunlight, yachts with two white 
wings like a butterfly come and go. The 
steamboats were well patronized by tourists. 
The square near the hotel had the expensive 
monument to Charles II., who gave so much 
money to the city ; but there is no inscription, 
and the sight seer must inquire about it. The 
cathedral is ancient, but not remarkable. 



Geneva. 

August 7, 1895. 

The ride from Geneva into France continues 

mountainous, the land unproductive, and the 

homes of the poor merely huts. After passing 

through a long tunnel, we descended to a 

valley ; and there it was cultivated, — acres of 

grape vines, vegetables, and some fruit trees. 

We passed occasional towns, but none of the 

castles and palaces are in sight of the railroad. 

There were pastures with Alderney cattle, 

more than had been seen in any other country. 



FBANCE. 95 



CHAPTER SIX. 
France. 

The Schneider Steel Works. 

August 8, 1895. 

To reach Le Creusot, we changed cars twice ; 
once leaving the express for an accommodation 
train, and the other to take a branch to the 
noted steel works. One of their large buildings 
is near the station, and was brilliantly lighted. 
They manufacture some rails, armor plate, all 
kinds of sheet steel, and probably can make 
everything needed in iron and steel. 

Their works are large and well kept. The hot 
metal rolls here and there ; plates of steel are cut 
like paper, square or round. Traveling cranes 
carry the heavy ingots from place to place, and 
thousands of men are employed. A statue in 
the town, of the founder of these works, is rep- 
resented by a figure of himself and a woman 
pointing him out to a boy, as a public benefactor. 

The market is on the ground, and consists of 
everything from mushrooms, which you tell by 
the color, to cheese, that you know by the 
smell. A market man drove by and stopped, 



96 LETTEBS TO BUTH. 

taking off his apron and sack, and then drove 
along placidly, seeming in proper dress, after 
making his toilette in the street. The click of 
the wooden shoes on the children makes a sin- 
gular noise, as they walk around, with bread 
made in large rings carried upon their arms. 

These steel works are generally open to the 
public, and schools can profit by this oppor- 
tunity. Coal is mined in the vicinity ; in 
fact iron and coal seem to go together, and the 
ignoble metal is really the most useful and 
profitable. 

The ride through France on the railroad is 
disappointing ; for while there are vines, vege- 
tables, and rows of Lombardy poplars trimmed 
up to look like long feather dusters, yet the 
villages were poor in appearance, and did not 
have an air of thrift. The women here have the 
same opportunity of playing croquet, tennis, and 
golf with the hoe, rake, spade, dogs, and cows, 
as they do in the other countries through 
which we have passed. I have discovered in 
the .old world three new beasts of burden, — 
women, cows, and dogs ; also two new des- 
serts, green hazelnuts and almonds. 



FRANCE. 97 



The Capital City of the Republic of France. 

August 9, 1895. 
We reached Paris at 5.30 P. M., and drove 
to our hotel. After dinner we walked to the 
Garden of the Tuileries, and entered upon 
enchanted views. Those who have seen its 
flowers, statuary, walks, trees, fountains, the 
Louvre, the river Seine, the bridges — can 
never forget its beauty ; and those who have 
not, must fancy it. The air was mild, the river 
glistened, boats passed, the bridges were ar- 
tistic, the view of the Champs Elysees and 
the Arc de Triomphe, the coming of the stars 
as night advanced, and the rising moon — 
all united in this one view, an entrancing 
picture, of which these words do not give any 
idea. The amount of money for all this must 
have been enormous, and must educate, so far as 
beauty can do. 



Paris. 

August 10, 1S95. 

The next day we drove around past the Mad- 
eleine through the Garden, and over Napoleon's 
bridge, past the houses in which La Place and 
Clemenceau lived and died. The hospitals 
occupy much space, and look old. The Hotel 



98 LETTERS TO RUTH. 

des Invalides is conspicuous by its dome, and 
the Tour Eiffel is nearly always in view. The 
military school had some companies on parade 
and horses exercising. Many of the streets are 
very narrow and very busy. We passed the 
Tour of St. Jacques, the oldest architecture in 
the city, and useful besides for the experiments 
made in it on atmospheric pressure. The statue 
of the Republic is heroic in all senses, and from 
there we drove past the Bourse to our hotel. 

In the afternoon we saw the column Yen- 
dome, elaborately sculptured, with a statue of 
Napoleon on its summit. The opera house is 
elegant, and noted for the different marbles, 
besides all the other desirable accessories. The 
hotels and shops in this vicinity are large and 
fine. In man}^ windows is the legend ''English 
spoken." Upon inquiry, that person is "out." 

In the evening, at the hotel there was a small 
conducted party which seemed to enjoy itself; 
and some of the young ladies were shopping, 
even to the extent of losing a trip to Versailles 
and the Louvre. I saw some of them writing 
letters with guide books open before them. 
These parties are a necessity to those who wish 
to travel, but do not have languages and local- 



FRANCE. 99 

ity to go alone. They have no care, and in 
that way lose all the pleasure, education, and 
rapture of seeing, hearing, and asking with ones 
own senses. They lose the joy and gratifica- 
tion of overcoming. 



Notre Dame. 

August 11, 1S95. 

Sunday we went to service at the Notre 
Dame. The same problem here confronts one, 
about the money and men to erect such a build- 
ing. It must have taken millions of both. 
Artists and skilled labor must have been plenty. 
The row of the twenty-eight kings of Judah, 
the three doors surrounded by apostles, disci- 
ples, and prophets ( one of them pathetically 
holding his head in his hand ) , all show the 
highest skill and labor. The enormous columns 
in the interior su^ested those at Milan. The 

Do 

choristers came in, the priests intoned, and 
both organs played. The congregation was 
small. Two old women sat at the rolling 
gates, to collect the money for the seats. The 
Romanists never leave the offertory to the gen- 
orosity of the parishioner, the price is fixed and 
paid. The gargoyles are frightful nondescripts, 
but useful as water spouts. 



100 LETTERS TO RUTH. 

The Hotel Dieu, a literal house of God, for 
what could be more so than a hospital, is near 
the cathedral ; and the statue of Pascal, on the 
Tour of St. Jacques, is in full view. We took 
an omnibus for our hotel ; and as we had ac- 
quired the habit of riding to the terminus, w r e 
were surprised and delighted to go along the 
Place de la Concorde, past the Obelisk, the 
Palais of Industry, and the Palace of the 
Champs Elysees ; the latter could not be seen, 
it was so surrounded by trees, shrubbery, and 
a wall. 

TTe rode by the Arc de Triomphe, which is 
elaborately carved, and majestic in design. It 
is all imposing and impressive, beautiful and 
expensive. The view from here shows the 
dome of the Hotel des Invalides, the long aven- 
ues of trees, the exposition buildings, and foun- 
tains. It is all so attractive that the time, 
labor, and money used are not considered. 

We rode to the Bois de Boulogne, and then 
took a funny little car to the Jardin d'Accli- 
mation, very gay at the entrance, with colored 
flowers and foliage. 

Our next ride was to the Bastille ; and the 
sidewalks were tilled with people sitting at little 



FRANCE. 101 

tables, eating, drinking and making merry. 
We rode through boulevards, and past two 
stone arches. 



Tour Eiffel. 

August 12, 1895. 

We boarded a little steamer on the Seine, and 
went to the Trocadero, built for the last expo- 
sition. The grounds are well kept, and have 
flower beds, a grotto, and fountain. The stat- 
ues of animals are all fine, and represent them 
as enraged, and give the chance to show artistic 
action. We crossed the bridge and saw the 
really wonderful Tour Eiffel, a great success of 
engineering and labor. We went up to the 
second stage, and I do not see how any one 
could desire to go up higher. The view was 
extended, and the city lay before us like the 
map we carry for a guide. The towers of Notre 
Dame, the spire of St. Chapelle, the domes of 
the Pantheon and Invalides, the top of the Opera 
House, the green roof of the Madeleine, the 
Champs Elysees, the Bois de Boulogne — were 
all visible. The Seine wound its way around, 
crossed by its twenty-eight different styles of 
bridges, and the grass and flower beds beneath 
us looked like rich rugs. 



102 LETTEBS TO BUTH. 

The descent was as unpleasant as the ascent ; 
the latter seemed as if the earth was moving 
away, and the former as though we might be 
swallowed. The captive balloon carries its pas- 
sengers still higher. We rode from here to the 
Palais Royal, and walked in its gardens full of 
flowers, with a fountain and four large pau- 
lownia trees. How changed is all this from the 
days when it was a residence of kings. 

Being near a tea-house, much liked by Eng- 
lish speaking people, we went in and had some 
waffles and peach short-cake for a lunch. The 
Opera House is now open only three evenings a 
week, and all the tourists avail themselves of 
seeing its magnificence. 

We drove to the Jardin des Plantes, a botan- 
ical and zoological garden, both useful and 
beautiful. From a. slight hill, presumably 
made, I saw in the distance a large tree, so dif- 
ferent from any other, that it came into my 
mind at once as a cedar of Lebanon, and when 
we walked to it, the label said it was, and also 
one hundred and sixty years old. The variety 
of trees here is large, peaches from China, gink- 
goes from Japan, sophora, accacia, etc. The 
labels are high and easy to read, in contrast to 



FBANCE. 103 

those in Cambridge, Mass., which are near the 
ground. There was a large piece of mahogany 
and many specimens of fossil woods. The 
masses with their children were on the seats, 
knitting, sewing, and gossiping, presumably 
with no conception of the interesting and val- 
uable specimens around them. 

We came back over the oldest bridge here, 
and on our way saw the fountain of St. Michael, 
the House of Archives, the Palais of Justice, 
with the spire of St. Chapelle rising from the 
interior. We also drove between the Notre 
Dame and the fearful morgue, and entered the 
old church of St. Germaine, whose bell tolled 
the signal for the massacre of St. Bartholomew. 
There is a clock inside, and on the tower a 
clock and thermometer. In this cathedral an 
old man held out to me a sort of wet brush, to 
which involuntarily I said, "JVon merci" with- 
out any idea of its use. A devotee following, 
squeezed it, and crossed herself; so it was pre- 
sumably holy water. 



104 LETTERS TO BUTH. 

The Louvre. 

August 13, 1895. 

A showery day, which we used for a visit to 
the Louvre. We entered the room of ancient 
sculpture, and saw the Venus of Milo, familiar 
by reproductions. Some of the rooms are 
richly painted overhead, and the staircase lead- 
ing to the gallery was quite classical. The 
paintings that adorned the walls w T ere of all 
kinds, subjects, and artists. The Murillos were 
superb in coloring, and the historical series 
painted by Reubens for Henry IV. were 
brilliant. There were many copyists, both men 
and women ; the latter, as usual, outnumbering 
the former, and with no personal appearance of 
artistic taste. One of them seemed to have 
taken a feather out of an old duster from an ash 
barrel, as a plume for her hat. The copies of 
all, as seen in passing, were excellent, and 
showed years of labor and desire, supplement- 
in o- the snft from nature. 

The room of treasures of gold and precious 
stones w r as richly decorated w T ith gilding and 
paintings. The floors are quartered oak, and 
so slippery, that one slides instead of walks, 
that adds to the fatigue of seeing so much. 
Many of the people had guides, who rushed 



FRANCE. 105 

them along, calling the names and attention to 
the especially noted paintings. 

From here we went to the Madeleine, and saw 
the beautiful flower market surrounding it. 
Among the cut flowers of all kinds was a bou- 
quet of golden rod. The potted plants had 
white paper around them, ready to carry home. 
The church is open in the afternoon, and as its 
architecture is Greek, the pillars are all on the 
outside. The altar is the most chaste and im- 
pressive of any I have seen ; life size stat- 
ues of Christ and some angels carved from 
white marble. 

From this quiet sanctuary we drove to bedlam 
in the Bourse, a building of the same architec- 
ture, with outside Corinthian columns. The 
financial excitement was so great that the crowd 
surged and yelled, even to the pavement. 

The city of Paris is surrounded by a railroad, 
that connects with all the stations. It takes the 
place of the elevated in New York, and the 
depressed in London, and is both ways. It has 
first and second class cars, the latter having 
seats on the top of some of the coaches. It 
passes the Bois de Boulogne, and must be a 
convenience, though it does not seem like rapid 



106 LETTEBS TO BUTH. 

transit. The city depends upon its omnibuses, 
which are usually crowded above and below. 
The drivers whip the horses, without any pro- 
vocation, and the conductors seem indifferent to 
the comfort of passengers. 

Some of the birds in the gardens are so tame, 
that they eat out of the hands of those who feed 
them ; and even the gold fish in the basins will 
swim towards people, hoping for something to 
eat. 

The people kiss on both cheeks, and it is 
amusing to see a party bidding farewell in a 
hurry at a railroad station. Each makes a 
sort of dab at the other's cheeks, and the result 
seems like a gymnastic performance. 



The Palais du Luxembourg. 

August 14, 1895. 

A pleasant day, which adds to sight seeing, 
and we start for the Palace of Luxembourg. 
This is very large, surrounded by a beautiful 
garden, flower beds in full bloom, large trees, 
some maples trimmed in a square form, and 
sycamores growing naturally. On one side is 
a fountain, erected in 1G20, the year the Pil- 
grims landed, so that gives some idea of the 



FBANCE. 107 

magnificence of Henry IV. and Marie de 
Medici at that time. The building is now 
owned by the republic ; we went through it, 
and into the senate chamber, very much like 
the one in Washington, lighted from the dome, 
with a red carpet and leather covered chairs. 
The walls of the reception room are decorated 
with tapestries, paintings, frescoes, and gild- 
ing, as is also the bedroom of the queen. This 
had a fireplace, with two outside windows, 
opening into the flower beds. The doors w r ere 
paneled with mirrors. The woodwork was of 
oak, as also the floor. How much history has 
been in these rooms, and what a fearful outlook 
from one of the windows, when Marshal Ney 
was shot. Napoleon I. had a council room 
here, and many of them are used for different 
state purposes. 

The museum adjoining is open to the pub- 
lic, filled with attractive and distinguished 
modern statues and paintings. Many of them 
were being well copied by busy artists. It was 
curious to notice the different styles of the 
students, landscapes, figures, animals, histori- 
cal, theological, and floral — all had their 
specialists. 



108 LETTEBS TO RUTH. 

The Pantheon is another elaborate and con- 
spicuous church, without any seats, but plenty 
of pillars, pictures, and statuary; and the 
effect is line. Four large pictures commemo- 
rate Joan of Arc, from the sheep to the stake. 
The frescoes are very bright, and the carvings 
over the door are allegorical. Through all the 
turmoil of war, successions, and changes, art 
has been encouraged; the Bible, history, and 
mythology have given the subjects. Very few 
old landscapes are painted, and then only as a 
a background to the figures. 

The Hotel Cluny, the antique of the city, is 
a most interesting place, and can give stu- 
dents many ideas for designs in iron, pottery, 
embroidery, and glass. The wood carvings of 
boxes, chairs, tables, cabinets, and the bedstead 
of the king, are admirable, and showed the 
artistic sense and patience of the workmen of 
those earlier centuries. The relics of the baths 
remind one of Rome, and the old wall and 
gothic arches are in great contrast to the mod- 
ern city of Paris. In the evening we walked 
up the Faubourg St. Honore, and saw in among 
the trees and through the gate the palace, now 
the home of the president, whoever he may be. 



FBANCE. 109 

France seems to have had more vicissitudes 
than any other country — kings and queens of 
all lines of descent, commune, wars at home and 
abroad, victories, defeats, and now, best and 
highest of all, a Republic. 



The Extravagance of Louis XIV. 

August 15, 1895. 

We started for Versailles on the day of the 

Assumption, and that may be the reason why so 

many people were going there, or it may be every 

pleasant day. The palace is immense, three 

stories high, and rambling over acres of ground. 

The central part is of brick and stone, and the 

chapel looks as if more recently built. The 

court of the entrance has heroic statuary of men 

who deserve it. A guard or guide took us up 

the stairs, into the magnificent rooms, the high 

vaulted ceilings painted by artists, the sides also 

covered with historical paintings and portraits, 

mirrors and gilding. The long large rooms 

were simply as superb and gorgeous as 

time, money, artists, and architects could make 

them. The views from the windows were 

enchanting. On one side conventional flower 

beds, on another shrubbery ; at one end a view 



110 LETTERS TO BUTH. 

of fountains, large trees and statuary, with a 
parallelogram of water in the distance. All of 
this enormous outlay was for the personal grati- 
fication of a few, an entire disregard for the 
common people. But now it is open to whom- 
soever will come, both palace and grounds. One 
sarcasm of time, that the Emperor of Germany 
was crowned King of Prussia in the room of 
glass, where a portrait of Madame Maintenon 
hangs upon the wall. It fulfills the Bible, 
where the wicked were in great power, but now 
they are gone. 

The money expended in Paris and surround- 
ings is so enormous as to be priceless. It has 
created beauty, and given employment. It is 
better than to support standing armies, equip 
forts with guns, or build vessels for war. 
But these are days of civilization, arbitration, 
and Christianity, where wise counsels and 
good judgment should prevail ; where edu- 
cation should be the inheritance and advantage 
of every child. Instead of that, soldiers are 
everywhere, gun manufactories are busy, and 
the unkingly ambition of selfish rulers can 
stain with blood the fair lands that should be 
the pure inheritance of all men; for all men ai*e 
the sons of God, 



FBANGE. Ill 

Paris to Havre. ^ ^ o ^ 

August 16, 1895. 

We left Paris from the St. Lazare Station, 
and rode through Rouen, winding around the 
town through a tunnel, and having two good 
views of the noted cathedral. 

The railroad from Paris to Havre has the 
roughest track of any over which we have trav- 
eled. We really pounded our way, instead of 
rolled, and were in a first class carriage, well 
upholstered. 

Havre is a pleasant seaport town, with a 
pretty park and flower market adjoining. 

We took the French line steamer Champagne, 
and sailed over the bar at 6 A.M., August 
17, and then waited for the mail. The passage 
was good, some wind, fog, rain, and three 
fine days. 

We reached quarantine at midnight, in sight 
of the electric lights of the magnificent city of 
New York, with the constellations of Orion, 
Castor, and Pollux and the Great Bear on the 
horizon . In the early morning the custom house 
officials boarded the steamer, from their tug, by 
climbing a ladder, when both were in motion. 

We landed in the early morning, August 
25, and the English language w T as music to our 



1L2 LETTERS TO BUTH. 

ears although we were grateful for the French 
and German that had been so useful in all of 
our travels on the Continent. We could read, 
speak, and understand enough of both, to go 
any place without courier or guide. 

We found everyone well, everything safe ; 
and w T ith increasing thanks and pleasant memo- 
ries, our marvelous journey ends. 

To the opening sentence of your letter of 
welcome, "Glory to God in the highest," I will 
add the " Nunc dimittis." The lost chord in 
the music of this sphere over which we have 
rolled is, that I can never inherit the glorious 
' ' golden eye " and ear that Michael Angelo 
offered to St. Lucy. 



